Derrick Ray Henagan, missing since August 4, 2008
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You're here: Chris Hallaxs' Home Page :: Forensic Behavioral Profile: Wilderness Skills Page
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By

Michael A. Neiger

with thanks to the Hallaxs Family, Dave Mansfield, Chris Ozminski, and Gail Staisil


Page contents:


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Introduction

 
  Snowy pines in Chris' country. Click on photo for high-resolution imagery. (Photo courtesy of Chris Hallaxs' digital archives)

This forensic behavioral profile of Christopher Charles Hallaxs' wilderness skills represents a months-long compilation of information gleaned from:

  • interviews with Hallaxs family members and friends;
  • interviews with Christopher Hallaxs' friends and acquaintances;
  • interviews with Lake Superior State Forest managers and private property owners;
  • interviews with Tahquamenon Falls State Park personnel;
  • a review of Christopher Hallaxs' personal effects;
  • a detailed examination of print and digitally-archived photographs from Hallaxs family members;
  • a detailed examination of Christopher Hallaxs' digitally-archived photographs
  • a review of Michigan State Police reports
  • a review of Chippewa County Sheriff's Office search-and-rescue operation's logs;
  • an exhaustive search of Internet message boards, Web sites, and other digital archives;
  • SAR operations in bush Christopher Hallaxs was known to frequent;
  • and CSI operations at remote wilderness bivouac sites—both temporary and semi-permanent ones, some complete with equipment and provision caches—attributable to Christopher Hallaxs.

If you have information you would like to contribute to Chris' wilderness profile,
or have a correction, comment, or suggestion,
please e-mail it to
mneiger@hotmail.com
or mail it to
Michael Neiger
Michigan Backcountry Search and Rescue (MiBSAR)
313 Jonathan Carver Road
Marquette, Michigan, 49855.


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Risk taking

Chest-deep icewater

"Virtues to wandering around half-lost"

There are virtues to wandering around half-lost too. Indeed, I often do it on purpose. Due to working around the wet spots and other impediments, I was covering areas I hadn't perhaps been on all winter.

The landscape sort of drastically changes if you add or remove a couple feet of snow, which means the easiest route moves around a lot all winter.

With this bit of unfamiliarity, I got a bit off course and ran into what I think is the biggest black spruce tree I've ever seen; maybe over 2 1/2 feet in diameter.

That's not much of a tree in general, but it is quite possibly the biggest _black_ spruce I've ever seen.

These kinds of things are what I sometimes wish I had a GPS for, because I could probably walk around for two days trying to find it again, constantly walking within 100 feet of it without knowing.

Then again, supposing I had it marked on a GPs, I can't quite see myself going back to just look at it again.

"Yup--it's still here. Um....So, what's happening, tree?" <silence....> "Right. ...okay, I'll be going now."
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, April 16, 2003

I wouldn't have been doing something stupid like this [wading in chest-deep icewater] except that I knew the cabin was only another 2 miles or so up the road and I could start a fire and dry out.

It was 25 degrees by the time I got to the cabin, still dripping water and starting to shake. :-)
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, December 31, 2002

Consuming water contaminated with E. Coli

Sometimes, some perspective helps. I used to work for the local state park, and we had to shut a hand pump down because it started testing for E. Coli.

We were trying to treat the well, which required pumping on it for an hour for some reason I don't remember.

A coworker was shocked that I was drinking out of this well between turns at the hard work of the pumping.

I told her "well, I've been drinking out if daily for a month before we found out, so I doubt it's going to kill me today"
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, January 4, 2003

"You can afford to be a lot more daring"

Another thing to keep in mind is that snowshoes leave very obvious tracks. You can afford to be a lot more daring, since at worst you can always backtrack.

Under most conditions I'm used to, it takes nearly two feet of snow to fully obscure new snoeshoe tracks. Even if it is snowing 6" an hour and fast drifting over any tracks, you'll still always find a track ever little while behind a tree where the air currents have perversely kept it clear of snow instead of filling it.

If you are used to "working the terrain" in picking a route, you'll tend to follow the same track over the same ground whether you even know it or not at the time. This being the case, picking up even the occasional track every few hundred feet even is enough to know where you've been.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 20, 2003

"I couldn't resist crawling up the riverbank to the bottom of the upper falls"

On being lost

I'm not sure I know what lost means. To SOME degree, you always know where you are.

The less you know about where exactly you are, it just means it's going to take somewhat longer to get back to somewhere where you will know. That's all.

I mean, say you are this "lost" thing. You still know that you are:

1) On earth
2) in a particular state in the United States
3) Probably know which particular county
4) where you came from before getting lost, which can't be too far away etc.

I suppose at some point along the spectrum of uncertainty, you can call it "lost".

I would say it is a matter of preparedness and personal circumstances at what point you'd call it "lost".

One person might think they were lost, where in the same situation another would just take another half day to get back out.

Yet another person might not worry much for a few days.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, November 27, 2003

Then when I got to the upper falls, I couldn't resist crawling up the riverbank to the bottom of the upper falls, and marveling at the house-trailer sized chunks of ice that had fallen from the rock face above.

Where they had fallen and busted open, the insides were for some reason a delicate aqua yet vibrantly blue color.

Even though there were two of these ice masses left hanging above, and it was above freezing, and even drizzling now, I clambered right up to one of these to investigate it.

However; keeping one eye *constantly* on those two last chunks hanging up there was getting nerve wracking. :-)
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 10, 2003

"I do stupid stuff, but I'm prepared"

I did have the minimal gear necessary to survive overnight no problem, if not exactly comfortably.

I do stupid stuff, but I'm prepared for the worst case if it turns out to be stupider than I estimated. heh.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 10, 2003

"I'm heading out west of town to see if I can't freeze off a couple appendages"

It's about -10 right now. I'm heading out west of town to see if I can't freeze off a couple appendages or something :-) I imagine the temp will rise significantly in a half hour or hour now that the sun is about to come up.

I'm going to be lazy/violate snowshoeing ethics and walk the snowmobile trail out part of the way while it's early and I still have it to myself. *GRIN*
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, February 13, 2003

Severe windchill

"You really shouldn't be out there alone"

When someone hassles me about "you really shouldn't be out there alone" my infallible, standard response, (stated more diplomatically than this) amounts to: "Oh! You're coming along with me, then? No? Oh...then must be you know someone who'd want to go along? No? Then MYOB."
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 4, 2003

I don't habitually deal with such situations [extreme, sub-zero temps in high winds], because in the country I am used to traversing, I'll simply reroute to stay on the lee side of hills and take to the cedar swamps or such and avoid the worst of it.

Maybe there are ways of better coping with this than I am aware, but the only thing I can imagine being able to do is hole up and wait that out. That's not going to be easy, either, since you are still having to stay warm, and are slowly losing your energy reserve no matter how well you are dressed.

Ever hour becomes more of a tradeoff of trying to brave the conditions and bug out, or sit tight and eventually succumb to lack of food, which in such conditions happens faster than actually starving, as it takes a lot of energy to keep warm.

Once your blood sugar drops far enough, that's probably all it takes. Then blood starts pulling in from your limbs, and they become more useless, and maybe freeze, and now you lack the ability to move well anyway. It all could pile up quite fast.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, January 22, 2004

"I'll tell them at work where I'm going to be"

Heading out to "see what happens"

I have something like 15 pounds of frozen meat which I bought on sale a couple weeks ago, and is earmarked for a snowshoeing expedition of some sort.

No date or location set yet, but it'll be something local, and is going to start from here in Paradise, because I'm going to pack a sled and take off in some semi- random direction west and see what happens, probably.

This weekend is too warm. Tomorrow is supposed to be potentially 35 degrees.

I'll die of heatstroke trying to snowshoe. Previous to finding the weather shaping up that way, I had tentatively considered doing a day snowshoe trip out to hopefully as far as the upper Tahquamenon Falls.

The route would just form itself as I went, but would probably partly follow my recent, probably still-barely visible, trail out to Clark lake.

Then it is uncertain if I would drop south to the lower falls, and follow the river to the upper, or arch around to the north toward the upper falls.

If I went via the lower falls, I'd get to see them again, and also, the trail between the two falls would be so packed with snowshoe traffic it would be a nice pleasant walk in just boots, I'm certain.

Either way, it would make for a very long day, and I'd probably end up walking the highway back during the last part of the day simply because it got dark on me before I returned, even if I start out at predawn light.

This Sunday will reportedly be below zero most or all of the day.

That's no huge impediment. If I was stuck with a "go now or lose the chance this week" situation, it'd be a nondecision.

However, then the next three days are supposedly going to have highs in the 10-15F range, which is about perfect by the time you work up a good trudging warmth.

Hell, if there's no wind, it's shirtsleeve weather for anything moderately aerobic, which snowshoeing is.

Well, as long as I stay out of the hot sun, and in the shade of trees.

I have done lots of one-day stuff this year, but I should work in a chance to establish a base camp in the boonies, complete with a fire to sit by to watch the stars a night or two.

That's always nice, too. ....hence the aforementioned frozen dead animal parts ;-)
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, March 1, 2003

This is a good point [letting someone know where you are going] and in retrospect something I have often done, I guess.

Like, maybe I'll tell them at work where I'm going to be, and that I *do* intend to be back for my next scheduled work day. So, someone knows, and it's someone that is definitely going to notice if I'm not back, because it's going to inconvenience them.

File under "If you don't think anyone cares if you exist or not, try missing a car payment."
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 9, 2003

On leaving emergency contact and medical info

Heh. Half the time, it would be weeks or months, possibly years, before another person came through the area I'm in.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, August 9, 2003

"I don't know where I'm going yet"

I've never been any good at that [leaving a trip itinerary], either, though. The simple fact of the matter is most often, I DON"T KNOW WHERE I'M GOING yet, until I get there!

This is why I stealth camped for a week in Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. They wanted you to be at a specific spot every night. How the hell do I know where I'm going be? I don't even know where I'm going yet, besides vaguely "east-ish, probably more-or-less along the lakeshore...maybe".

I guess this is to maximize who gets a chance at a campsite, due to demand, but this turned out to be no big deal, because I was the only one at any of the designated camp sites.. It was mid-October, and for the most part I was the only person around anywhere.

Even on a few-hour walk, I might take off north with something tentatively in mind, but after going out, the terrain changes my mind, or maybe there's more snow than I thought still, for example, or who knows what. I end up walking back into town from the southwest.

I can't necessarily say when I'll be back either. If I don't have anything going to make me come back at a certain time in the next day, I might have an approximate time in mind, but then I end up taking longer to walk an experimental route than I first planned.

All day dayhikes sometimes end up becoming impromptu overnighters as I run out of daylight.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 9, 2003

"No one approves of me out wandering around by myself"

Basically, it has been made abundantly clear to me in the past that I 'll get nothing but hassle for my efforts [to inform family members of where I am going], as no one approves of me out wandering around by myself. Being that as it is, I've chosen to stop burdening them with the knowledge, as well as saving myself the hassle. As I've said before:

Someone: "You're not going to go out there by yourself!"
Me: "Oh?? You mean you're coming along too? Cool."

The downside of this is that sometimes I am reluctant to do things that I might otherwise do if I had a bit more safety margin through having a partner or three. On the other hand, this is probably a false sense of security. People in groups tend to somehow end up doing even stupider things than they would otherwise know better to do by themselves. :-)

Of course, having made that observation, now I'll assume I'm wiser than a group, and go off and do something cocky and dumb. heh.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 9, 2003

"Stay away from trees during lightning"

I do think it is kind of funny camping in the middle of a forest when you've always heard "stay away from trees during lightning".

I'm not sure what the correct interpretation of this is, but I assume that 1) that advice is only relevant for isolated trees in otherwise flat areas and/or 2) in the middle of miles and miles of woods, what the hell is there to do about it anyway? :-)

....maybe stay at home out of the dangerous woods...and slip in the bathtub and get a head injury and be a vegetable for life.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 12, 2003

Search-and-rescue costs

Late for dinner

The sun was starting to slide faster west now. Uhoh.

I was supposed to be at my grandparents' house for a dinner party for my Mom tonight.... It's that late already?

My watch said 3pm. Oops. Sadly, they are kinda used to me saying I'll be back, and I don't make it.

Me is a Bad Son. :-)

These kinds of explorations always take longer than one imagines, even after you take into account that it'll take longer than you imagine.

I'd only covered maybe five miles of distance, but by the time I wander slightly back and forth in favor of terrain, I wouldn't be surprised if it ends up closer to 7 or 8.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, February 14, 2003

I don't see validity either in the argument that the cost of search and rescue is something you can hold over the head of someone who supposedly is "irresponsible". Did they ask for SAR?

A secondary argument is that "well, what about the relatives/family/friends?" Indeed. They were the ones that requested SARS service, in that case, so they can foot the bill.

Haggling over splitting it or whatever is totally between the rescued person(s) and whoever initiate the rescue.

If any of this sounds intolerable to you, or doesn't match your mode of thinking, the beauty of it is that it still leaves you free to make your own accommodations to have someone come after you if you don't show up at your scheduled time.

This isn't equally important to all people. Some people have kids, some don't, etc. Some people get more value out of doing things that may or may not have incidental risk than others do, and they have to individually decide if the value they get out of it balances the risk or not.

Actually, perhaps I don't take this idea far enough; like the issue of the "one armed rockclimber" to be irrelevant. Maybe he had insurance, maybe he paid cash, maybe he was treated pro bono for the publicity it got the medical center...but maybe he's even a leech on the partly socialistic health care system, and in that case, who's being dumber, him, or all the people that were in some way responsible for footing the bill for him? :-D
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 10, 2003

"I once popped one of my knees slightly backwards"

"The most hazardous thing I've done"

 
  Upper Tahquamenon River Falls in the winter. Click on photo for high-resolution imagery. (Photo courtesy of Chris Hallaxs' digital archives)

The most hazard-ous thing I've done (shhh. .don't tell any-one) is cross-ed the top of the upper Tahqua-menon falls when the water is a bit down at least.

I do this a ways upstream, where I'd have a lot of chances to catch myself if I lost footing, it's just upriver out of the eyes of the silly tourists (wouldn't want to give them any ideas) and there is a sort of shallow ledge that runs from one side of the river to the other.

You can walk on the back side of this so you are effectively braced against the rock against the current if you are careful how you step.

I've never even come close to falling over doing this, much less getting sucked downstream, but unless the river is very low, every step is a detailed study in its own right.

There is a nice place to ford downstream of the falls, but it's not only waist deep at the driest times, but the other side is a short trek of hell to get back out of the swamp that is in the lowlands below the escarpment that makes the falls.

In past droughts, I have been able to walk across above the upper falls and never have it go over ankle deep most of the way across. Then it's a cinch.

There are countless places to cross for at least a half mile upriver of the lower falls, but the bottom here is extremely tricky.

Always carry some kind of staff, stick, pole, to prod the rock bottom ahead of you. There are interesting places where you might be in mid-shin water, and one step drops you in up to your neck.

If you know they are there, these are great fun to play in in the summer, but if you get caught by surprise, you can easily injure yourself falling into them.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 6, 2003

I once popped one of my knees slightly backwards after falling off a roof I was shoveling. This was a case of stupidity: the fall didn't do anything, it was what I did after.

The snow that came down around me packed in hard around my legs slightly over the knees, and I lost my balance while trying to yank my feet out of the snow.

I fell forward, my leg was held in the snow as if in dried concrete, and it made a loud audible "snap" noise, and hurt like *#&$ for a few weeks afterward.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 5, 2003

"Danger: no progress beyond this point"

Heh. I have a soft spot for them too, despite the fact that they often exist next to signs saying things along the lines of "stay on trail" and "Danger: no progress beyond this point" In the case of the latter, they do often lead to the best scenes available.

Sure, they could build a big huge deck with rails out to that spot, and thus make it safely viewable, but that would be nearly pointless, as it would also ruin it in almost all cases.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 4, 2003

Falling through ice

I know if I fell through the ice in the winter, I sure as hell might not live, let alone be able to just keep going.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, January 23, 2004

"Luck, while a valid fact, is overrated"

Luck, while a valid fact, is overrated. Paranoia works better. That is, a lot of the stuff I step on while hiking I am EXPECTING to betray my confidence in it supporting me.

I am half sure every rotten log I step one will unexpectedly let my foot drop right through it, that every web board is impossible to stand on without doing a Chevy Chase, that every rock has been carefully balanced on the rounded end.

I attempt to counteract this by using a sense of balance, and also being ready to fall in as graceful a manner as possible. Walking is not fully automatic, or at least doesn't have to be. It does help to actively be thinking about what you are doing even when strolling down a relatively tame trail. I

f you keep stubbing your toe on roots, be conscious of how you are walking, analyze it, and modify the habitual pattern. Even constantly thinking about what you want to do if you do fall helps you to do so in such a way as to minimize or even prevent injury.

Well, in theory. I'm not going to pretend I never get injured, or never do stupid things. I've tried to cross a log over a river before and ended up with a pure black bruise on the outside of my right thigh that was as big as my outspread hand when I slipped off and landed on the log as I fell.

I do feel that trying to think about how I walk makes a lot of difference, though. For example, despite constantly doing stuff like stepping on downed trees that bounce up and down as I try to stand on them, and sometimes jumping from one such tree to the next, I can't recall the last time I twisted an ankle. A couple years at least.

Of course having said all this, now tomorrow I'm going to go for a 1/4 mile walk and fall 24 inches off a log and shatter both legs or something. :-)
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, August 24, 2004

Personal responsibility

This [people needing expensive rescues or evacuations] sincerely perplexes me. What's complicated? Why not just let people sign a waiver, and if they call for help, tough shit? ...unless someone wants to volunteer to go get them totally of their own accord, out of boredom or whatever.

I don't buy the excuse about "they might not know what they are getting into, so someone has to protect them". That works for dogs and small children, but theoretically, adults are....well, adults. They were warned (though even this is not strictly necessary, because no one follows you around in real life warning you of every possible danger or setback), they didn't listen, they made their own problems.

The only person anyone can do anything about is themselves. Part of fully respecting people as individuals is to allow them the right to do things that you personally find really stupid, because surely sometime, you are going to do things that someone else thinks is asinine. :-)
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, January 8, 2003

On being lost

Have you ever gone into the grotto under the Upper Tahquamenon River Falls?

*GRIN* Er...no...there are signs that tell you not to do that, and it would be dangerous.

Actually, yeah. Two or three times. It's neat under there. In the summer, around 6am the sun is coming up and shining through the curtain of water, and the rock wall is all fuzzy and green with moss and some sort of fern that is apparently specialized to the environment there.

One time I was under there and the whole area was full of butterflies.

You'd think the heavy mist would drag them down, but it was so thick with them under there I could stand still and hold my arms out, and they'd land on me.

One year when the river was extremely low, I went under at the water level from the other side too, but you end up standing in water to your knees on submerged rocks.

It's not nearly as interesting as the south side.

I know the signs are because they get tired of, or don't want to be liable for rescuing idiots that fall in, but I wouldn't be the least bit resentful if I myself fell in and was drowning and everyone just stood on the observation deck and waved.

After all, it would have been MY fault, wouldn't it?

No sense anyone else risking anything to save someone else from their own stupidity!
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, January 5, 2003

What I was really trying to write in between the lines was having a few simple crucial [survival] tools at my *immediate* disposal [in a survival situation], the most important one being my head, is ever so much better than even an army headed my way and due in an hour.

It's also much more efficient. There's really hardly anything that you can't survive for several days around here. There's always some sort of water.

Even if you were sure it would make you sick to drink it, you would do so in order to keep going for a couple days, and then deal with the effects later. Biggest thing is don't get frenzied.

You can do yourself more harm in a lot of situations in 15 minutes of panic than calmly assessing and coping for a couple days. I didn't say it was going to be like laying home in bed, but you'll live.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, January 6, 2003

Does anyone have a helicopter available up there [U.P.] for rescue purposes?

I don't think so. I'm sure not counting on it. Actually, I kinda hope not. I'd be pissed if anyone went to that much bother. Helicopters are expensive to waste on fools getting themselves lost in the woods :-)

Again, the places I go are often not accessible by anything other than foot. Also, because I'm often exploring new areas, I can't exactly usefully tell anyone where I'm going.

I have at times been out just exploring and ended up 10 miles from home or camp or cabin, and just walked out to the nearest road and then back 'home', such that my planned 8 hour walk turned into a 16 hour overnight one, but that's fine.

In the summer, sometimes I'm ambivalent about whether or not I'm out of the woods before dark. The worst I'll get is somewhat hungry.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, January 5, 2003

Do you carry a cell phone...to summon rescue?

Cell phones don't work around here in a lot of places, and I couldn't depend on the batteries anyway, probably. Also, the kinds of places I go, it would be about useless.

The batteries would go dead before I could ever talk anyone into where I am. "Yeah, okay, now follow that ridge to the north until the woods changes to spruce, then skirt the bog around the east side, and continue on about a half mile until you hit the creek, then head upstream until you get to where it narrows and there are trees to walk across.... (continue on like this for about 15 minutes of conversation)

Well, worst case scenario, I could probably head to a snowmobile trail or the highway under an hour. I HAVE gotten wet before in the winter, and it's really not all that bad as you'd think.

Once your clothes freeze up, they just become windproof, and it's not a huge issue until you stop moving, which you never do until you stop for the night anyway. It's not nice, but it's survivable.

Also, I ALWAYS have the means to start a fire, plus a hatchet, large knife, folding saw, and sometimes a short machete-type thing (Ontario SP-8) I carry this stuff even if I only expect to be out an hour or so.

I have yet to have needed it, but it's useful for other things too. With the means to cut and shape trees, to some extent, I could even repair snowshoes if I had some rope.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, January 5, 2003


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Stealth hiking

"I have a lot of camo stuff"

"I think I
scare the tourists"

*GRIN* I think I scare the tourists. I'm not sure. Maybe people aren't that talkative.

Personally, if I see someone that looks interesting, as shy as I am in some ways, I tend to want to bombard them with questions, cursed as I am with curiosity.

This is doubly true if I cannot quite figure out the reasons for what they seem to be doing. This isn't all bad, I guess. I'm not here for social purposes.

It's kind of nice that I can wander all over amidst the light crowds and basically be ignored. I feel like part of the scenery somehow.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 25, 2003

I have a lot of camo stuff....I don't hide out in the bush only to advertise my presence!
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, February 21, 2003

"Go quietly"

I often slow down quite a lot on my own in order to go quietly and study the details around me more.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 31, 2003

"Concentrating on stealth"

Sometimes as well, I am concentrating on stealth to observe things. Touching or disturbing anything makes noise.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, December 14, 2002

"I can smell, hear, see..."

I also love that fact that it [walking barefoot] gives me yet one more peripheral information input. I can smell, hear, see, and without looking also be paying attention to all kinds of details about the ground underfoot at the same time.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, February 14, 2003

"Creaks, sqeaks, rattles and jingles"

I've tried like hell to kill all the creaks, sqeaks, rattles and jingles on my pack, but I'm still not happy with it, and had to settle for the fact that it is going to make some noise, just like clothes rustling and footfalls while wearing shoes.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, February 14, 2003

Training yourself to pay attention

"I could clearly smell people"

I then went across the road and noticed that as soon as I got across the road, here still a long ways from the campground, I could clearly smell people.

After all day of carefully noting the smells of trees, sunbaked leaves, cooking swamps, and so on, this really struck me.

The particular things I could pick out were bug repellent, laundry soap, tobacco smoke, and various mingled perfumes. All very obvious, and all very out of place.

As the wind shifted, this huge blended cloud moved through the woods in a surprisingly large area, and you'd note moving in and out of various 'streams' of smells.

As I walked down the trail to the Lower Falls proper, I was noticing I could literally smell people before I saw them in most cases, and stand off to the side of the trail watching them pass. Wow. No wonder animals always know you are there!

In all fairness, I should note that it had been hot all day, and being I was intending to go swamping, I hadn't bothered with bathing in the last 12 or 24 hours or whatever, so maybe the tourists didn't think much of my aroma, either. (well, what's the point if you half intend to end the day covered in mud?)
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 25, 2003

No matter how good you are, a dog's senses far outrank yours in some ways. Having said that, there is much you can do to 'train' yourself to pay attention. Consciously monitor wide peripheral vision, consciously keep your ears 'open', consciously pay attention to the smells, etc.

Some of the more remarkable things I've experienced are smelling animals before I saw them, and being able to sneak up on them. Probably, conditions were perfect.

The animals didn't stink, exactly, but even a deer has a smell of its own. (think the smell that gets on your fingers from the fur, when skinning one out at deer season). I've smelled coyotes once or twice before seeing them. Basic "wet dog" smell. heh.

The nuances of sounds are something you can train your ear to, as well. Crunching leaves are not just crunching leaves, necessarily. The finer details of the sound, perhaps how it starts or ends, make the difference between wind and maybe a grouse walking along through them even to the ear alone.

All this DOES take effort. It's more natural to just wander along in a sort of daze and not notice stuff until it becomes obvious enough to break through your daydreaming. ...or if you pay attention to sight *too* much, you get overly wrapped up in it, and keep forgetting to smell or hear, for example.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, June 3, 2003

"Really notice the ground underfoot in great detail"

I often find it worth a few sharp sticks now and again [going barefoot] to be able to really notice the ground underfoot in great detail as I walk, not to mention the amazing silence improvement it makes.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 5, 2003

"Trying to be silent and part of the brush"

A lot of the time while out walking, I am trying to be silent and part of the brush. I've even had limited success sneaking up on deer now and again.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, February 15, 2003

Stealth hiking and avoiding people

"Stepped off the road in a swamp to let a car go by"

A few hours into the walk, I stepped off the road in a swamp to let a car go by about 2am, and I stepped in a swamp mudhole and soaked my feet.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, June 26, 2003

If I have to go through a place full of hundreds of people, I may even detour around it through the woods or on alternate paths. This isn't really that hard. People are unobservant; my self by no means excluded.

I've sat down in plain sight leaning back at the base of a large tree before, right next to the trail, and just sitting there, startled the crap out of about half the people that came by as they suddenly realized there was a human being there 2 feet away from them at the last minute.

The other half never noticed. Mostly, this was fun because it was interesting because I was observing, and thinking about what I observed. Partly, admittedly, it was a bit fun unnerving people without actually really doing anything. "What? Oh...hi! No, I'm just resting for a minute. Nice day huh?" hehe.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, August 24, 2003

"Stood off the trail as it passed"

One lone snowmobile came up behind me a half mile down the trail. I heard it coming a quarter mile away, and stood off the trail as it passed.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, February 14, 2003

Encounters with humans

Super with my Uncles...

Later, supper [at his uncles' camp] is lasagna. Well, it's better than rodents (squirrels), but it lacks....I dunno...spirit, or authenticity, or character, or something.

There are even...um....napkin rings, though these accompany paper plates, and such, so it's tolerable. I get asked once, apparently sincerely, something along the lines of if the food is good enough, the chair is OK, etc.

Usual trivial, borderline-annoying niceties. I'm amused, though.

After all, I am usually pretty happy to be sitting on the ground next to a fire, gnawing a carcass and throwing the bones back in the fire, listening to the wind in the trees around me. :-)
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, November 11, 2002

Humans I don't worry too much about, because I never meet them but rarely, and if I was worried about them, more often than not they are bumbling along through the brush or on ATVs or something.

I can sit unobserved and watch them pass. Even when I walk roads though, most people seem somewhat intimidated by me somehow.

This seems to stem from that fact that when they start talking to me, sometimes to see if I'm stranded and need a ride, and find out I've just walked from Paradise, which is 14 miles away, maybe, they then assume I'm slightly off my rocker, to draw some conclusions from the looks and comments this elicits.

Conclusion: cultivate a somewhat eccentric appearance as a preemptive defensive measure :-)

Maybe I'm leaving out something. I'm sometimes told by people that I am big-looking, or something to that effect. I am merely about an even 6 feet tall, which from my view of the world is shorter than half the guys I meet so far as I notice. Nevertheless, this is a possible contributing factor I might be discounting.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 29, 2003

Sensing others

I pretty much always know other people are there before they know of me, and so I get to decide whether I want them to know if I'm there or not, and the fact that the areas I frequent are remote enough that I'd be pretty slack-jawed with surprise to even encounter anyone at all, it seems a silly law [hunter-orange law].
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 15, 2003

"How the hell do I know where I'm going be?"

I've never been any good at that [leaving a trip itinerary], either, though. The simple fact of the matter is most often, I DON"T KNOW WHERE I'M GOING yet, until I get there!

This is why I stealth camped for a week in Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. They wanted you to be at a specific spot every night. How the hell do I know where I'm going be? I don't even know where I'm going yet, besides vaguely "east-ish, probably more-or-less along the lakeshore...maybe".

I guess this is to maximize who gets a chance at a campsite, due to demand, but this turned out to be no big deal, because I was the only one at any of the designated camp sites.. It was mid-October, and for the most part I was the only person around anywhere.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 9, 2003

Walking stealthily

"Hearing" plants emerge

Just tonight, I noticed the onset of something that happens every year about this time, usually. It's usually some warm quiet night when the snow is gone, or recently gone.

It will be still, and you stand in the dark in the woods, and you can hear things rustling and moving in the leaves everywhere around you.

It is _just_ quiet enough that you keep thinking maybe it is your imagination, so you stand still and listen, and it seems to keep getting louder in the silence. THEY are coming!

Heh. Yeah, the plants are growing. You can hear it. Seriously.

When I first figured this out a couple of years ago, I had to spend an hour crawling around on my hands and knees in the dark with a flashlight in the woods before I was finally able to realize what it was.

Everything apparently just mostly all at once decided to start poking up through the leaves on the ground, and it happens fast enough that though slow, the leaves are quietly crackling and rustling as they settle into new positions as fern fiddleheads and such poke through.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 7, 2003

There are all kinds of broken sticks that can take chunks out of your feet. However; you really quickly learn to habitually pick every footfall without quite looking at the ground.

I'm not sure now if I simply remember the ground ahead and then step where I remember how it looked when it was 20 feet ahead, or if I operate on lower peripheral vision, but I do seem to be watching how I walk. It's interesting to just see it automatically work with no apparent effort on my part.

I remember long ago making very conscious effort to place every foot, but not any more. This also leads to being quiet. You are less motivated to not step on every single dry stick in your path if you have armored feet. A corollary to this is that your feet are interactive. You get feedback.

You can feel what is under them even as they contact the ground, and either shift the step at the last instant, or conform it to not put much weight on the sharp things underfoot, perhaps by curling your toes up, or keeping your weight on the front or back or one side or the other, etc.

To cross back over the stealth side of the issue again, you can do the same thing to keep weight off a stick you just stepped on, so that it probably won't make a loud crack even though you've stepped on it.

You lack this flexibility with any shoes I've seen-even sandals, and would just have to move your foot or step on the stick and snap it loudly. Sometimes, the ground is littered such that there isn't anywhere to step that DOESN'T have a 'noisemaker" underfoot.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 5, 2003

Spring peepers foretell flooded areas at night

I took a different route walking back toward town, and had to keep cutting off into the woods to get around flooded spots.

I discovered that I didn't have to backtrack and detour upon finding water, because I simply could listen to the locations of the spring peepers, and thus be able to "hear" from some distance away where the flooded areas are.

"Frogs over the next hill, dead ahead, and to the right. Must be flooded. Guess I'll follow the ridge to the left off the road." This proved a failproof strategy.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 1, 2003

 


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Tracking man & beast

"Backtracking an older track"

Dream: Befriended by a wolf

I tend to dream about the woods about half the time somehow or other.

I also seem to have lucid ones a lot where I at the least know I'm dreaming, and just sit back and watch, or quite likely have some level of control over them, which is fun.

One sometime over the last few months involved being out snowshoing/camping in the winter, and some sort of wolf, or sled dog, or mix of the two befriended me out in the woods one day.

At first, it just sort of hung around and didn't seem frightened of me, but then I started tossing it tidbits.

A few days later, we had some fun knocking each over into the snow the rest of the day.

For some reason after the dog started following me around, I was able to just curl up in the snow and be perfectly warm as they do, which was nice.

The dream kinda faded off into an eternity of tramping around a and endless winter woods that never thawed, hunting with a small rifle, and sharing the fruits of the hunt with the dog at night while sitting next to a fire under cold hard stars in a clear winter sky.

Somehow, it seemed to go on like this for ever, day after day, infinitely.

Perhaps not that odd a dream, since I've long wished they'd hurry up and get genetic engineering down to a science.

I'd like to have a full-body coat of coyote fur, at least during the winter, so I could do without a sleeping bag and all that crap, hence the part of about just sleeping in the snow at night.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, January 11, 2003

This morning, I backtracked an older track of mine west of town, and noted that a wolf had used my snowshoe trail to run on for a ways.

I've never seen them this close to town before. Other than that, nothing much interesting.

A lot of snowshoe bunny tracks, and a set of bobcat tracks was all.

Need more snow to fill in some of the watery spots in the bogs; I had a time in a few areas hopping from one grass knoll to the next, and I think I'm more being held up by tag alder brush than the actual snow, but it's all good!
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, December 14, 2002

Tracking down a moose

I mostly see tracks or...droppings or pellets or whatever.

One winter I tracked one down on my snowshoes, and then found out I could move MUCH faster than it could in the snow, and quickly got a pic of it from like 20 feet away before getting back away from it to keep from harassing it too much when it needed to save energy for the winter.

I was using a cheap camera though, and the result looked like the moose was more like 50 feet away. Bah.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, December 14, 2002

"Scaring the crap out of a deer"

The nylon mix ones [cargo pants] are quieter than the polyester ones. I like being able to occasionally sneak up on and scare the crap out of a deer :-)
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, December 18, 2002

"I saw two bent fern stalks"

I found it [a geocachee] a year or two ago only because I saw two bent fern stalks or something like that and was poking about the area wondering why someone had walked into the woods.

I was actually expecting to find something obnoxious, like a discarded beverage can or Kleenex or something---I was just sort of practicing tracking I guess. I was able to find enough sign to lead me to the spot, by literally looking at how the dead leaves on the ground were subtly rearranged.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 15, 2003

Tracking down a pair of moose

Moose sure do cover ground. I spent several days this March on snowshoes trying to track down a pair 25 or so miles west of here by following their tracks in the 3-4 foot deep snow. Simple enough. They make holes in the snow big enough to drop tree trunk fence posts into.

I started at an arbitrary point, walked the tracks for a good 8 hours all day, quit at dark, went back the next day to pick up where I left off, quit at dark again, repeated a third day and never seemed to come anywhere even close to catching up.

Despite the fact that I started out on brand new tracks, they seemed to be moving faster than I was following them even in all that snow, as the tracks were getting older as I went..
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 15, 2003

Sense of smell

"I heard some thing BIG coming through the seasonal lake"

The spring peepers were literally so loud it was causing physical pain to my eardrums. I was about ready to take off back home when I heard some thing BIG coming through the seasonal lake.

I've heard deer walking through water quite often. This was bigger.

A bear? Hm.... No, because you could tell by the sound that it was *stepping* in water at least a foot and a half deep, I guessed. A bear would be slushing

along *through* it at that depth. Must have been a moose, but there was tooo much brush and crap in the way to see to where the sound was coming from.

I suppose I could have waited to see if it came out where I could see it, but there wouldn't have been much to see anyway, it getting pretty dark.

I also scratched the idea of wading out into the water to get a better look.

It stopped after a dozen seconds or so, either standing still or maybe had walked out of the water, so I left before the damn frogs made my ears bleed. :-)
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 14, 2003

By paying attention and developing your sense of smell, you can locate plants growing in the area that you cannot even see, smell water, tell what is in the water, smell a wind coming over a hill and tell what sorts of trees grow on the other side, and so on.

Ever see an animal with its head up, doing that odd thing where they inhale through their nose and their mouth at the same time? It works. You can kinda taste and smell the air at the same time, and get a slight bit more info out of it sometimes.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, November 4, 2003

Jumped-on by a coyote

I was hunkered down poking at the leaves in the ground, trying to determine what had been through, where it was going, etc. Passing creatures leave a sort of "track" that you can sometimes follow where their footfalls disturb the layer of leaves subtly, even though there are no actually "prints".

I was checking this out, gently rustling in the leaves with a fingertip as I tried both to decipher the signs and not destroy what I was looking at before I had figured something out. I heard a stir about 20 feet away in one of those thick wads of balsam pines, and reflexively turned to look.

Out bounded a coyote right at me as if someone had tossed him out in my direction. I'm down at the ground and he's actually slightly above me in mid leap, and I have some thoughts of if I should grab it by the throat and squeeze like hell, or what, but mostly I'm just dumbstruck.

I SEEM to think I saw an "oh shit...." expression materialize on the coyote's face somewhere midleap, and he twisted like hell and managed to miss slightly, landing right next to me as I was still hunkered down on the balls of my feet.

As soon as he hit the ground, he launched directly away from me and was gone again into the brush in two amazingly long leaps. I stood looking at the very obvious disheveled tufts of disturbed leaves that marked his retreat, and after a moment started laughing.

I suppose the dog thought it was pouncing on a squirrel or rabbit or something in the leaves. I never really had time to get scared, but then again, you kind of work out of that after a while, and only get startled, but not actually frightened. That probably does not make sense unless you understand yourself what I mean, though.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, January 29, 2003

"I constantly learn things from watching"

I constantly learn things from watching or tracking everything from mice to birds to moose to coyotes.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, March 29, 2003

 


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Getting wet & cold

On swimming across lakes with a pack

Crossing an unbridged river at night

I poke a stick in the gap in the dam, and find out the water is deep there. Over my head at least.

Okay, scratch wading, then. Well, dammit, this figures. I mean, the rest of the dam is solid.

The bit on the other side looks good to walk on too.

Hmmm...well, anything a golf-ball-sized brained, bucktoothed, 40 pound rodent can do I can do, right?

Damn straight. I also have a saw and an axe, both of which work better than beaver teeth.

Over the next somewhat under two hours by flashlight, I hauled, cut, dragged and threw enough dead trees, logs, brush and stumps and anything else loose and dead I could get hold of until I can manage to walk across without getting my feet wet. It works.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, November 11, 2002

I'd just walk around lakes rather than risk losing my pack in the bottom of one
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, September 10, 2003

Wet is wet"

I remember the day started off hot and 90 and sunny, and by the time I got back, it was 45 degrees and pouring horizontal rain. Since I was wet already, I was wading in the lake, what the hell? Wet is wet.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 25, 2003

"I want to be able to feel the bottom "

Over a certain depth, somewhere below knee deep, it becomes easier to shuffle through the water than to actually step in and out of it.

If doing a somewhat treacherous crossing, I'm not comfortable wearing anything on my feet, because I want to be able to feel the bottom and know precisely what I'm stepping on.

Even if the rocks are smooth and snot-slippery and green slimed in fast current, I can feel around and wedge my foot in against an upcurrent niche and make sure it's set in there good before I take the next step.

The slight gain in traction with footwear makes me nervous because I have no way to tell what exactly it is I'm stepping on, so as to tell how good that traction is. I suppose this depends on the river bottom.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 6, 2003

Fording the Tahquamenon River

I've been trying to find some sort of feasible route to hike from the north side of the river near the Upper Tahquamenon Falls to get to the NCT south of the Rivermouth.

Fording the Tahquamenon River just above the falls

In any case, I finally reach the observation deck below, and without ceremony or looking back, nor even a pause to look at the falls, I climb up the fence, hop off the other side, and go splashing up the river. FREE!

Oh, it's nice not to have to wait behind slow people!

There are odd shallow ledges in the river bottom above the falls, visible as white lines of foam across the river.

About the third one up is a good crossing point, giving you maybe nearly a hundred yards of leeway between you and the actual drop, too.

These ledges have swifter current, but are shallower and have more predictable bottoms.

Nevertheless, I take this probably with overmuch caution, probing the bottom wherever I cannot see, and planting the staff on the bottom with every step, whether I think I need it or not.

At most it gets to about 10" deep right now with the river low for summer.

On the other side, I walk back down river to the observation deck on the south side of the falls, for use by the Toonerville Trolly and Tom Sawyer Riverboat customers, and hop that railing and head up the stairs into the woods on the other side.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 25, 2003

The river can be crossed pretty easily at the upper falls, the lower falls, or at a spot a half mile downriver of the upper falls. The spot downriver of the upper falls is the least desirable, as the other side is nasty swamp which would probably take a couple hours to clear the half mile to high ground if laden with a backpack.

Across the lower falls is the most interesting route ,as out there, I found what seems to be a 40-50-year old abandoned logging road. I was trying to follow it, but lost it somewhere while screwing around taking side trips to look at other things, so I headed back to the upper falls for the day.

On the way, I discovered several white pines that were easily 4 feet in diameter at the base, and a 3 foot or so diameter yellow birch that was rather impressive.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, January 2, 2003

On getting wet in the winter

I HAVE gotten wet before in the winter, and it's really not all that bad as you'd think.

Once your clothes freeze up, they just become windproof, and it's not a huge issue until you stop moving, which you never do until you stop for the night anyway. It's not nice, but it's survivable.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, January 5, 2003

Swim wear

Yes, that is a strategy [wearing swim trunks as undershorts] that works good, and also makes it easier to work in swimming/bathing (if you choose to use a local river or lake to wash off in.)

Even if you simply end up getting wet from a river crossing, swim trunks are made to dry faster.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 9, 2003

"Pantlegs don't fill full of water"

The tight weave also makes them [cargo pants] fully bug-proof. At the height of the bug season, it's usually wet and warm, so I'm walking around in either sandals or feet.

To keeps bugs from flying up the pantlegs, I simply take a length of cord and tie the ankles off. This probably looks absurd, but it works great.

Also makes walking through water a lot easier, since the pantlegs don't fill full of water.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, December 18, 2002

Cold-water swimming

Snow bath

Believe it or not, the 37-degree river dip was far worse than the one time I tried giving myself a "snow bath" on one warm, sunny (hot, it seemed, after winter) 65 degree spring day.

In case you wondered, yes, this works.

After having been in the woods for a couple of days, and combined with a change of clothes, I deemed myself marginally suitable to head to Newberry and be seen in public, even.

In both cases, I could have pumped and heated water inside the cabin, but that would be a big hassle, and I'm actually lazy enough that (apparently) 3 minutes of discomfort beats a half hour of hassle.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 9, 2003

The earliest was two years ago. Exactly 7 days after the last ice vanished from the south end of Whitefish Bay.

I think it was late April, but I don't remember the exact day. I just remember that precisely a week before, when driving by on the way to work, there was still ice out there.

I didn't plan on swimming per se. I was just wading on the spring sandbars (they are usually very prominent just after the ice goes, before the waves level them back out) and not going in over about mid-thigh, but I walked out a good half mile on a sandbar, and there was a gap where the Naomikong river flowed out and broke the sandbar.

The choice was to walk/swim to the other side to resume walking, or walk ALL the way back on the sand bar to the beach, then back down the beach, to the bridge, and then all the way back out on the opposite sandbar. ....but after I got in, it wasn't as bad as I'd imagined.

I think your mind makes it seem worse than it will be. Once you let your heart rate and spasmic lung movements calm down :-)

I've been actually swimming in May before, but neither time did I stay in long.

The worst one was taking a bath in the river by the cabin literally days after the ice went out of it. That was rough, but I wanted to clean up somewhat. After I stopped shaking, I took a thermometer back, out of curiosity. 37 degrees.

I don't think I would have done that, only it *almost* felt good, since it had been unseasonably warm all day, and I was hot from hiking. That was cured in all of 2 seconds, I think.

Believe it or not, the 37-degree river dip was far worse than the one time I tried giving myself a "snow bath" on one warm, sunny (hot, it seemed, after winter) 65 degree spring day. In case you wondered, yes, this works.

After having been in the woods for a couple of days, and combined with a change of clothes, I deemed myself marginally suitable to head to Newberry and be seen in public, even.

In both cases, I could have pumped and heated water inside the cabin, but that would be a big hassle, and I'm actually lazy enough that (apparently) 3 minutes of discomfort beats a half hour of hassle.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 9, 2003

Chest-deep in ice water at night

Yeah, sometimes night hiking can be great, and even in some pretty unexpected ways. Last year, I walked out to the cabin during the peak of spring thaw. It had been 60 degrees in the daytime.

I walked out during dusk, and it was full dark before I got to the cabin. Most of the way there, I encountered floodwater and had to wade through it. Yes, the road was flooded, but EVERYTHING was flooded. No way around it that I knew of. Well, I'd already gotten my feet wet, so I continued on.

Then it got deeper, but what the hell, I was already wet up to my knees.... heh. This continued until I was chest deep in ice water, pushing ice and slush out of my way, and holding my pack over my head.

Anyway, the point is, this led to somehow one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen. There was a good 1/8th mile or so of this wading, and what with pushing 2 feet of slush on top of the water out of my way in places, let alone the water, I stopped to rest for a moment, and after the ripples stopped, I looked down and saw the most perfect reflection of the stars in the black water around me.

I even momentarily forgot I was standing chest deep in slush as I looked at this. It was just stars on water, but for some reason it really hit me.

I really see more good stuff at night than in the daytime, but most of it is way to subtle to ever capture on camera.

(I wouldn't have been doing something stupid like this except that I knew the cabin was only another 2 miles or so up the road and I could start a fire and dry out. It was 25 degrees by the time I got to the cabin, still dripping water and starting to shake. :-)
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, December 31, 2002


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Long-distance hiking

30-plus-mile dayhikes

"Pushing myself a bit more than might have been prudent"

I can think of times when I have been stumbling back home or to the car after pushing myself a bit more than might have been prudent.

If I had a cell phone, I might have been tempted to call family or something and come drive me the last 20 miles home.

In the context of the situation as it happens, I'm in a way rather glad I do not have that option.

It keeps me from thinking for myself, which I have in the past demonstrated I can do if I have to.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, December 8, 2003

I do stuff within walking distance of town, though I occasionally will walk 30+ miles in a day if I travel light, so I've been out to the Falls and back in a single day before.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, December 13, 2002

35 miles

Sometimes about 35 miles can make the ankle straps on the sandals blister, though. I don't do that much distance often.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, August 9, 2003

Death marches

At around 4am the clouds break up and it mostly clears off, so the stars are back. Shortly after 6 am, I probably only have 3 hours to go, but the soles of my feet are getting sore to the point that they seem to burn.

Not totally unusual. I've probably gone nearly 30 miles so far, and somewhere around or past 20 I usually hit a limit of not exactly physical endurance but blisters and other such bothers.

I stop and build a tiny fire off in the woods for four hours, and drink and eat a snack out of my small backpack. I might have slept a bit, but not substantially. In certain states it is nearly impossible to tell if you've slept or just zoned out. It's cold.

A fire just keeps you from actually freezing--it doesn't actually make you comfortably warm, like to be able to sleep. On the other hand, don't take this to mean I was like shivering the whole time. I wasn't. I just wasn't toasty is all.

Shortly before noon, I'm on my way again, and after I stop to pick up a couple handfuls of beech nuts, I'm there. Well, all told, this was like 20 hours, wasn't it? Then again, I had not intended on having to stop to repair beaver dams. Also, something in my right foot hurts like hell when I walk.

This, like the footsoreness, is not unusual in general. Minor things seem to come and go during long walks, don't they? Though, whatever the pain is, it's not anything I've had before. It annoys me because I don't know what it is, I think.

On all-day walks, such things come and go. They slow you down a bit, maybe. I guess the 4 hour rest was not strictly called for either. I could have gone without it, but what the hell. It's not like this was a death march, or like I had any strict itinerary.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, November 11, 2002

30 miles in 17 hours

I've never had anything like it happen before, but I don't apparently have a huge problem with my feet sweating, unless I'm just generally overheated. I also don't tend to do the 30-miles in 17 hours through soft snowmush in the rain very often, I suppose.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 10, 2003

The aches and pains of 24-hour hiking

40-mile dayhikes

In terms of slackpacking vs. backpacking, I have at times been really teetering between going light and making it in one trip, or carrying a load and making it an overnighter or two.

The problem is that once you opt for the full loadout, you slow yourself down.

There is a 30-40 or so mile range, depending on terrain, and weather, where it's kind of a tossup between a single hike with minimal load, and a couple days with the full amenities on your back.

I gotta admit I'm lazy. If I can avoid a full pack, I will. The more enjoyable trips I've taken have been 30 miles or so with just my 10 pounds or so of dayhike stuff.

They sometimes end up to some extent being 'forced marches' since I then need to get to my destination, not having the luxury to just stop and camp, but on the whole I like it better.

The terrain also matters. I've done 10 mile hikes that took a good long summer day and were more tiring than others I've done that approached 40.

Serious bushwhacking with a full pack is pure hell, too, and I've been lucky to make 8 miles in a day doing that-- sometimes less, if it's also swamp and full of downed trees.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, February 12, 2003

Using some of my newfound wealth on the Pepsi machine on the deck in front of the Tahquamenon Falls Brewery and Pub, I poured some sugar in my fuel tank, put my sandals on for the first time today, and started walking the highway back toward Paradise. The swamps would be a sort of a hassle in the dark, and anyway, at 0300, the road would be all mine anyway. And it was.

The sandals were good though. Something about pavement just eats the soles of your feet off like nothing else, I've found. Not even walking on bare rock will do that as bad. I got back to within about five miles of Paradise, past all the swamps, and was able to get off the road before the first car came through about 0600 or so.

Suddenly,about this point, everything just started sending in pain signals. The bottoms of my feet felt as if they must be bleeding raw, and my hips felt as if they were being dislocated with every step, and my knees were queuing up right behind them. My shoulders were feeling left out, and joined the mob, complaining about the pack straps for the last 24 hours.

This is actually better than usual. I seem to usually hit this sort of limit around 18 hours or somewhere around 23 miles, regardless of whether I have a pack or not. I certainly never could have made it this far with shoes. I'd have had bleeding blisters by now. For all that my feet were sore, they did not actually have any injuries, aside from some days-old scratches and gouges from a particularly nasty swamp crossing earlier in the week.

I was just simply footsore. I would have been in shoes, too. Worse, actually, even disregarding the aforementioned blisters I would have had with shoes. I appears that I rather underestimated simple muscle fatigue, too. When I got back home around 1000, I collapsed gratefully on the ground and apparently fell asleep for about 2 hours.

I woke up to find everything had stiffened and seized up. I pulled my watch off my belt to look at it, noting it was nearing noon, and also that I couldn't even seem to move enough to roll over. Bah. Pathetic.

Laying there with nothing to but stare at my watch while working up the will to get moving, I watched about 10 minutes go by, fading in and out of sleep still, before I could manage to fully roll over. Then another five or so to get to my hands and knees. Then almost that again just to stand up, whereupon I was able to barely hobble off to the shower, and thence to sleep.

You know, I don't know what the hell is wrong with me, because, in a way, all I can think of is: "Now THAT was FUN!" I seem to be slightly sore yet, but it works out within minutes. Basically, given 24 hours, I could have done it again.

Any remaining stiffness would have worked back out a half a mile into the walk. As it is, taking it easy, it kind of lasts longer, as it keeps setting up again slightly every time I stop moving. I'm not longer anything like debilitated, though. That went away in about 14 hours, during which I slept anyway.

I was momentarily unable to walk again upon waking, but it effectively worked out within a hundred steps or so. Heck, it didn't even bother me to walk in the gravel driveway without shoes, so they've also recovered amazingly, considering what they felt like earlier.

It's all good. It just makes the next trip easier. I /think/ I have a decent handle on what's going to actually injure me. Maybe when I'm 50 or 60 (I'm 30 now) I'm going to hate myself?
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 25, 2003

 


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Ultra-light hiking

Rucksack contents for overnight trek

Traveling light

I don't have much for a pack. Just some food, drink, gloves, etc. Minor things.

It's just a daypack, really. I've opted to go light and forgo the heavy packing. I still have the means to stay warm if I have to.

I won't be comfortable if I have to camp, but I'll certainly live.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 22, 2003

I grabbed a knapsack, put in some water, food, an 8x12' plastic tarp to roll up in if it rained, and a knife and pretty much took off at dark.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, June 26, 2003

10-pound day pack

The more enjoyable trips I've taken have been 30 miles or so with just my 10 pounds or so of dayhike stuff.

They sometimes end up to some extent being 'forced marches' since I then need to get to my destination, not having the luxury to just stop and camp, but on the whole I like it better.

The terrain also matters. I've done 10 mile hikes that took a good long summer day and were more tiring than others I've done that approached 40.

Serious bushwhacking with a full pack is pure hell, too, and I've been lucky to make 8 miles in a day doing that-- sometimes less, if it's also swamp and full of downed trees.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, February 12, 2003

 

 


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Hitchhiking

"Are you a trapper?"

I apparently had no idea how cold it was. Upon my return, I found out that it had not been over -4 all day. This may explain why almost no one stopped me. I am used to getting bothered by constant offers of rides while walking the road in the winter.

Possibly, a snow-covered guy with 1" icicles in his beard, carrying a 7 foot stick, with huge snowshoes slung across his back, several miles from the nearest building looks like he knows what he's doing. Maybe.... or maybe he's crazy to be out in this weather, and noone wants to give a crazy guy a ride.

Twice some tourist snowmobilers did stop, but only to ask me curiously what I was doing. The second one stopped while I had stopped to finish off my Mountain Dew, which was now finally starting to freeze at almost 5pm. They for some reason asked, "are you a trapper?"

A local did pick me up 2 miles outside of town though, and for the sake of time, I accepted.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, February 14, 2003

 


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Night hiking

Night travel

Colored LEDs for night vision preservation

I have a small 1-AA red LED light that I've used a lot.

I used it in the middle of last night to go off a quarter mile into the woods in a snowstorm, even, just to retrieve something I left out there before the snow buried it good.

The red reflects great off the snow and yet doesn't really impact your night vision, so this has two benefits:

(1) Your usage of the light doesn't "fade" your vision(*), as your eyes get used to the light, making it seem dimmer and dimmer the more you use it.

(2) You can turn it on and off, and still see after turning it off instead of seeing either blank black or purple spots until your eyes readjust.

I didn't strictly need it last night, for instance. I could see enough to avoid trees and brush, but depth perception on the snow; seeing the layout of the ground was impossible without it.

4 foot high hummocks in the ground were invisible without using the light, and I was tripping over them.

Green is purported to be better for this purpose, as the human eye is most sensitive to light in the frequency that corresponds to green, so the same output seems to be much brighter.

Green is still a color, though, and night vision is black and white only, so it still diminishes the risk temporary blindness.

When my eyes get super-adjusted to the dark, even the red light has some effect, but it is minimal, and I can be careful not to look at the brightest spots, or to not illuminate anything too closely and intensely.

(*) I have a couple bluish-white LED flashlights that are strange to use for hours straight, because the color sort of burns into your retinas or something after a while and you get dazzled or blinded or something, such that it's almost like they get progressively dimmer as your eyes get used to the light.

The color seems ideal for working in the snow somehow, though. It reflects perfectly so as to give maximum illumination.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, December 3, 2003

I'm itching to do a trip. I haven't had more than a dayhike here and there since just before rifle deer season....

Now...should I leave like tomorrow night at 2am and see if I can't beat the snowmobiles out and get off anything traveled before most of them wake up?
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, January 8, 2003

Bog-slogging

Something possessed me to go try to find my way out across my 'favorite' tag alder/cattail/cedar bog after it got dark tonight.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, January 11, 2003

Slush freezing on snowshoe

About the third time I took a step and ended up in snow up to my waist and pulled out my snowshoe with slush freezing all over it, I decided to 'cheat' and break out a little bit of light. I didn't need much.

My red CMG Infinity that lives on a string around my neck was more than enough. The rest of this company's product line I don't know about, but doesn't seem much remarkable. However, the Infinity Tasklight is a fantastic thing.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, January 11, 2003

"I maybe should do more bushwhacking after dark."

I maybe should do more bushwhacking after dark. It's good practice for using a compass, which I'm not much in the habit of doing. I can't see far enough through the woods in the dark to support my usual method of repetitive sight-range landmarks/dead reckoning.

While my favored method works better in that it has evolved to fit working through terrain where you have to pick a winding path through instead of being able to go where the needle points, I'd probably learn something from forcing myself to do something different.

Speaking of picking routes, has anyone else ever noticed that there is like One True Way between any two points in the woods, it seems?

I mean, if you concentrate on just finding the easiest, least brushy way through, and worry about direction only secondarily, you can go through several times and find yourself practically walking on your own tracks half the time without even noticing it.

Even though I pretty much take a different route every time through, because my tracks keep getting wiped out by new snow, there are a few areas where I seem to walk past the exact same trees almost every time through.

Something about the geography or thick and thin areas of brush is apparently forcing me through particular areas without me even noticing.

Hmm...and of course, I can't finish this without first going off on not one, but now a secondary tangent. In regards to the "one optimal route" thing, I seem to find myself incidentally following game trails when going off-trail, and have learned it pays to follow these, at least a bit.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, January 11, 2003

Hiking at night

Somewhere around half my hiking is at night, as an overal average I think. At least a third.

I have utilized a flashlight periodically on such walks, looking for blazes, tracks in the road, signs, and other things, but for the most part if it is at ALL possible, you can see better if you don't use lights. Lights just mess up your night vision and blind you, even the red ones, slightly with extended use.

Let your eyes adjust. It might take most of an hour to get full adjustment. This is also an advantage to a wide-brim hat. Even full starlight, and especially full moonlight, can really wreck your night vision, so it's handy to have your eyes shaded from the sky, even if it's 3am and February.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, December 10, 2003

Hiking all night

Yeah, I gave up on getting my family and so on to understand this [hiking all night in the dark]. For a while I just had to just sneak off and not tell them, maybe short of leaving a email, a note on their door or something so they'd know I was missing intentionally.

Implicit message: "No, I'm not going to stop enjoying life just because you can't comprehend that it is not dancing with death just to go snowshoeing in the backwoods for 8 hours." After a while, they did, I guess, notice that I was doing this a lot, and I do keep returning, so.....

Actually, sometimes recounting events that happen while out there helps. It seems to take the mystery out of it, and so remove the fright of the unknown factor, I guess.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, December 12, 2003

Night hiking

Bats

I see a lot of bats in the woods around dusk, mostly, but also at times around dawn.

About three nights ago, I was sitting in the woods watching them fly all around me against the pale and darkening sky.

I've even had them temporarily take up loops around my head and shoulders as I've walked a road or trail.

I assume they are catching the bugs that are after me, so more power to them! Eat up, guys! Faster!

They at times will swoop within inches of my head, but I've never in the least worried about it.

Having watched them work around tree branches and near walls before, they are amazingly maneuverable and know what they are doing.

I've never so much as been brushed by one.

I DO think if one landed on me I would probably instantly attempt to smash it flat, if for no other reason that as far as I have noticed, this would be highly odd behavior for a bat, and as such would be suspect.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, September 3, 2003

I had long had a habit of walking the roads and trails at night, but it was at this point that I started doing things like walking the trail to the lower falls along the river at 2am.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, September 7, 2003

Night hiking in the winter

With the leaves gone, and the snow on the ground, combined with a clear starry night, there's usually more than enough light to see by if you are on any sort of a trail at all, so night travel is rather more possible in the winter.

I've even done some limited bushwhacking on snowshoes in the winter under such conditions. The stars make a great "compass". I wouldn't want to try any nasty swamp crossings requiring care to stay out of the water without daylight, though.

Hell, sometimes winter night travel is to be preferred. For one thing, if the temps are a tad extreme, you can sleep in the day when it's warmer, and move at night when your exertions will make -15 entirely comfortable.

The northern lights occur more often in the winter too. I can recall an early February night a few years ago that I nearly wimped out on because it was so *#&@ing cold, but the northern lights came out that night so bright that the illumination was like dim daylight on the snow, even casting totally obvious, well-defined shadows of me and the trees on the snow.

At first, I thought I had lost track of time and the sun was coming up, but it was about 4 hours early for that. yet.

Full moon winter nights are not to be missed either, and the colder it is, the clearer the air and more stunning it is. Additionally, clear skies are usually accompanied by dew, which manifests itself as furry white frost in the trees in the winter. The trees become all diamond-dusted in the moon and stars.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 20, 2003

An all-night walk

The most startled I've ever been

The most startled I've ever been was one time when I almost tripped over a grouse that was nesting on the ground in the dark.

I certainly did not expect one right in the middle of the foot trail between the upper and lower Tahquamenon falls.

They usually go up in a tree at night.

Also, it was a still, pitch-black night under heavy forest canopy, and I was absolutely blind, going partly by feel under foot and partly by the feel of nearby trees.

Something about a warm still night you can feel something in air pressure, or maybe reflected radiant heat and somewhat reliably tell if you are nearby a tree or not.

Handy for not walking into them if you can't see.

Anyway, the grouse exploded from the ground as they do, and I actually felt the wing feathers brush my face as it took off.

Again, I wasn't scared, but startled. I've been scared before, sometimes quite badly in similar situations when walking in the dark, but this wasn't it.

It did, however, probably take a couple minutes for my heart rate to stabilize!
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, January 29, 2003

I took an all-night walk once back in November last year when it had recently rained, but had then cleared off and was getting down around 25 degrees at night.

The muddy twotracks and other assorted back roads were frozen solid. For a large part of the way, I was ecstatic about this. It seemed to make the going incredibly easy, but I developed odd sharp pains in the top of one of my feet, and one knee was bothering me slightly.

Such random things seem to come and go with no lasting effect or apparent reasons with extended exertion. I wonder if it had to do with the concrete-like frozen mud I was walking on, though.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, June 21, 2003

Night operations

I have done night park [Tahquamenon Falls State Park] 'operations' before, if only for the purpose of walking the trails at night, despite the signs saying you aren't supposed to be in the park after 10pm unless you are camping.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, June 11, 2003

"Took off down the road on a bike around 3:30 or 4 am"

Yeah, it did get cold last night. I wasn't really thinking much about it and took off down the road on a bike around 3:30 or 4 am, and wore sandals, and my toes were getting cold. I was wondering if by the feel it was around freezing, but I didn't see any frozen dew or anything. It must have been damn close.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, June 1, 2003

"Watching the sky finish getting dark"

Stopped alongside a trail just outside of town around full dark, and was sitting on a convenient blowdown and leaning back against another; generally lounging around, watching the sky finish getting dark, the stars come out, noting the pattern of the evening breezes in the trees, sniffing the air...etc. Just getting a feel for the weather for the next day or three, I suppose.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, September 3, 2003

Chest-deep in ice water at night

"Annoyed in midsummer that it's not dark longer here"

I'm actually sometimes annoyed in midsummer that it's not dark longer here [in Paradise, Michigan].

Sometimes in late June/early July, if the sky is clear, there literally is less than 4 hours of full dark.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, June 3, 2003

Yeah, sometimes night hiking can be great, and even in some pretty unexpected ways. Last year, I walked out to the cabin during the peak of spring thaw. It had been 60 degrees in the daytime. I walked out during dusk, and it was full dark before I got to the cabin.

Most of the way there, I encountered floodwater and had to wade through it. Yes, the road was flooded, but EVERYTHING was flooded. No way around it that I knew of. Well, I'd already gotten my feet wet, so I continued on.

Then it got deeper, but what the hell, I was already wet up to my knees.... heh. This continued until I was chest deep in ice water, pushing ice and slush out of my way, and holding my pack over my head.

Anyway, the point is, this led to somehow one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen. There was a good 1/8th mile or so of this wading, and what with pushing 2 feet of slush on top of the water out of my way in places, let alone the water, I stopped to rest for a moment, and after the ripples stopped, I looked down and saw the most perfect reflection of the stars in the black water around me.

I even momentarily forgot I was standing chest deep in slush as I looked at this. It was just stars on water, but for some reason it really hit me.

I really see more good stuff at night than in the daytime, but most of it is way to subtle to ever capture on camera.

(I wouldn't have been doing something stupid like this except that I knew the cabin was only another 2 miles or so up the road and I could start a fire and dry out. It was 25 degrees by the time I got to the cabin, still dripping water and starting to shake. :-)

I like sleeping in the woods for the sounds. You can hear the wind around you, and animals moving and all that. At least I do. I somehow often catalog this input in my sleep. It won't wake me up, but when I do wake up, I can run through what I heard, sometimes.

Then again, maybe it's just the white noise in general. I sleep at home in the same room as an Athlon computer system that sounds like a mini wind tunnel, and if it's doing something intensive overnight, the hard drive is clicking and whirring away too. :-D

I wouldn't have been doing something stupid like this except that I knew the cabin was only another 2 miles or so up the road and I could start a fire and dry out. It was 25 degrees by the time I got to the cabin, still dripping water and starting to shake. :-)
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, December 31, 2002


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Off-trail hiking

"Looks much worse than it really is"

Winter bushwhacking

Bushwhacking on snowshoes varies. Don't expect to do any huge amounts of distance.

If the powder is fairly fluffy, you might be limited to somewhat less than mile per hour, even, and it will be WORK.

In this area of the UP, flat open peat bogs are great for cross-country, off trail snowshoeing.

They don't contain near so many surprises in the form of lumps of snow, brush traps, buried logs, etc.

Snowshoe bushwhacking through the woods is fun, but you do have to get experienced at learning what you can and cannot step on.

Pulling a sled through this is nigh impossible though.

I've done it for short distances, but have taken as much as 4 hours to go a mile or so. It's tiring, and extremely discouraging.

You CAN run a sled fairly easily down any sort of trail, old road, or even offtrail on the aforementioned open bogs.

Stick to the areas of bog that at least show weeds or brush or small trees sticking through the snow, so you know you're not wandering out over a bog lake, and beware of small sharp depressions in the snow, which are often caused by water or even small streams far under the surface, melting the snow down above them.

I often carry a longish small sapling pole (around 7+ feet long and the diameter of a broomstick) to poke at such suspect things if I have to walk over them.

It's also good for casually knocking the snow off the brush ahead of me while bushwhacking, which keeps me dry since *I'M* not the one knocking it off onto myself as I pass.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 25, 2003

Sometimes, the brush is actually much worse along the trail or road than in the woods. At the edges of openings, the trees and bushes are all trying like hell to grow into the light.

Because of this, it looks much worse than it really is once you get off further into the woods, usually.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 25, 2003

"So bad the animals don't even go there"

I seem to find myself incidentally following game trails when going off-trail, and have learned it pays to follow these, at least a bit.

They come and go, so there's no need to worry if you keep losing and picking them back up ever little ways, but a few years ago, I learned a hell of a lesson concerning game trails.

I wanted to walk around the east and north side of Clark lake, north of the Tahquamenon Falls, in order to see Betsy lake, simply because I'd never actually set eyes on it.

For most of the day, I was following deer tracks on and off in the bog as is usual, and then at one point the deer trails all kept veering off the main one and going totally somewhere else, until I encountered the unusual situation of an area totally devoid of any game trails at all.

Basically, all the trails that I'd been incidentally following all at once very decidedly turned off and went somewhere else--not anywhere else in particular so much as everywhere else but where I was going.

As I pressed on, I got into the worst brush I have yet to ever seen before or since. It took me most of the day to go a mile.

At one point, I dropped my water bottle and it fell down in the brush under my feet, and I had to take a large knife and chop through the brush so I could reach down and get my water back. Imagine acres and acres of living brushpile growing on an expanse of waist deep black pudding.

Sometimes, my foot would slip off the roots I was walking on, and sink thigh-deep in mud until my foot happened to hit another root and stop me. In short, this area was so bad the animals don't even go there.

I pay more attention and give more thought now to where the animal trails go. Since it took me so long to get over there, I found myself on the wrong side of the lake as it got dark. This wasn't a huge deal. I didn't have to be to work tomorrow.

I could stay, or I could walk back in the dark. However, the brush I had just been through did NOT seem like an option I wanted to try in the dark.

I grabbed two dead trees off the shore, and with one under each arm to sort of float me in case the bottom was too muddy and wanted to suck me down, I walked back across Clark lake to get back to the south side.

I sort of skirted the east side slightly, but basically walked right across it. Unless the other side is much deeper, or I miraculously missed the deep holes, the whole thing is 5 feet deep.

It was mid July, there was a full moon in a clear sky, and it froze that night, yet the water was warm--it had been around 90F that day, and staying in it was better than being in the air.

Bog-slogging

I was out tonight for a bit. The skeeters weren't too awful bad until 9-10pm, and then I was back and came in .

When I started out about 6pm they were not bad at all.

This was walking through some prime mosquito breeding area, too. Cattail/tag alder/cedar swamp where every random fourth step or so drops you in to a knee in the moss and black pudding.

The only thing that seems to give even the appearance of ground is that you're walking on roots.

I wonder if the whole UP would just gradually ooze into Lake Superior in a short few years if it were not for this overlay of tangled root mass?

It's kind of fun, because if you find a stump or log or just a particularly solid root mass to jump up and down on, the trees and bushes shake for 50 feet in all directions, and the surface of the all the little patches of standing water will quiver.

Surprisingly, it grows full size cedars and even some white birch and stunted maples. And a lot of tag alders.

And giant chest-high ferns in the more open areas.

Not bracken ferns, these grow straight from the ground as tapering fronds, rather than on top of a tall stalk.

I used to know the actual name of them, but have forgotten.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 21, 2003

I got back to my car at 1am, dripping wet, covered with black mud to my chest, shaking so bad from some mix of exhaustion and cold that I could barely get the key in the door lock, and my legs so tired I was getting up to three cramps at the same time per leg. LOL.

I felt and odd but great sense of achievement that This Day Had Been Seized! (note for the safety conscious: the cold was not a huge issue in terms of danger, as I only got cold after I got out of the water and walked the 10 minutes back to the car.

Actually, this probably would not have even been that bad, except I was pretty drained of energy at that point.)
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, January 11, 2003

Years before would visit same area

Heh. Half the time, it would be weeks or months, possibly years, before another person came through the area I'm in.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, August 9, 2003

Bushwhacking easier in winter

Bushwhacking is in a lot of ways easier in the winter through very thick brush, since the snow buries it.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 20, 2003

Deep cedar swamps

You are worried for naught about the low temperatures here. I'm not as hardy as you think I am regarding cold, perhaps. It's all trees around here.

See, out in the swamps and deep woods, there is not really any wind to speak of. There has to be a gale going overhead to amount to a stiff breeze down in the swamp, and if you really retreat down into Deep Cedar Swamp, there's not even that.

In times past, I have had some moments of painful extreme cold and windchill when crossing an open swamp here or there when it was windy, but you mostly plan your route to stick to the thick spots. This works out for three reasons.

Wind shelter, seeing areas you can't see in summer because of bugs, and seeing areas you can't see in summer because you can't walk in them due to wetness.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, February 27, 2003

Sandals for "serious blog-slogging"

I wasn't entirely sure where I was going yet, but I did know that I intended on doing some serious bog-slogging, so while I did take my sandals, just in case, I left them in my pack.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 25, 2003

 


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Barefoot hiking

Walking barefoot in the bush

Working the Upper Tahquameon Falls for coins

The moon was not out yet, but after a freak cloud went over that sprinkled lightly for all of five minutes, the stars shone in the clear sky, enabling me to see to walk back to the upper falls.

I crossed those about 2am, using the staff and a flashlight. The flashlight was not strictly necessary, but it's convenient.

Also, when shining it around, I noticed a bounty of coins in the river near the observation deck. heh. Damn! Pollution! Litter!

Surely all that metal in the water must be bad for the fish! I'd better clean some of them up.

Lessee....quarters are bigger than the other coins, so they must be worse. Better get those first.

I only spent maybe all of a minute at this, so I only got about 2 bucks' worth.

I probably could have made about ten times that in extended effort, if I'd wanted to take about a half an hour.

If it doesn't get picked up by someone, it gets washed over the edge at the next rain and increased water flow, and there it lies at the bottom of the falls presumably forever.

The point is, if it had rained much recently, there wouldn't be much at all.

There's getting to be some competition for picking it up, though: I have it on good authority that the teenage park workers are going back after hours for it. That's funny.

Actually, there's a knack to grabbing a lot of it. It sits on the rock bottom uneasily.

If you don't go for it just right, you every-so-subtly change the water flow dynamics as you hand gets within a few inches, and something changes and the current grabs the coin and... ZOOM!

Away it goes like a startled fish, faster than you can see almost, and it's gone, over the edge.

Sometimes you feet being in the water can cause this disruption for a range of a couple feet, even.

I also crawled around in the ankle-deep water on hands and knees with a flashlight, looking for the tiny fish, maybe 2 1/2" long max, that I've seen before many times, that swim a few feet in place above the lip of the falls.

I don't know why they expend so much effort to sit there, like that. Must be a lot of food comes by as it goes over the edge?

I've tried to catch them before, wondering what they are, but I've not had any luck.

They're FAST little things,and wary. I didn't see any of the little fish this time.

Using some of my newfound wealth on the Pepsi machine on the deck in front of the Tahquamenon Falls Brewery and Pub, I poured some sugar in my fuel tank, put my sandals on for the first time today, and started walking the highway back toward Paradise.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 25, 2003

Knowing I was likely to be walking through water a lot of the time, I ditched the shoes before leaving the house. Ah! Now that's more the thing! It felt so good to FEEL where I was going again.

Sticks, ferns, reindeer moss, sand, pinecones all crunching underfoot. Cool ground, warm ground, wet ground, frozen ground, etc.

Yet more input to throw in along with the sights, sounds, and smells. It's also so much quieter. I see more wildlife this way, usually.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 4, 2003

Barefoot in the snow

It wasn't winter, but last spring I didn't plan too well, perhaps, and took off when about 3/4 of the snow was gone and wandered off five miles west of town barefoot, wading through a lot of snowmelt water and leftover snow, and lots more mud.

It felt wonderful to ditch heavy clunky boots for the first time in months, and also, a lot of my intended route had a few feet of water in it.

It was sunny and 50 degrees or something, which after winter, feels downright tropically pleasant. However, I got distracted by being close to a goal, and also underestimated how fast it would get cold after dark.

I returned to town about midnight, and the last couple hours were walking barefoot over frozen mud and refrozen leftover snow. WOW did my toes burn! hehe. (if they hurt, they aren't frozen, though)

Overall, the whole experience was still fun. That last hour or so was a bit miserable, but doubtless I'll do something similarly stupid again at some point.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, January 25, 2004

"Toenails stained black from mud"

Most of the summer, my toenails are stained black from mud. It won't wash or scrub out in any form that I've ever found.

Trudge a mile through a moss bog though ,and they look almost white and decent again. Of course, then I go off through some more black stuff later and restain them, but it's just interesting that the moss can do this when I'm not aware of anything else that can.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 25, 2003

Barefoot and in the company of a bear

Walking along without shoes as I often do, on and a road that was sand and grass, I was pretty much silent. Pants make some noise, regrettably, but I'm not *totally* crazy.

I heard something large move in the brush, and stopped for moment. About 25-30 feet off in the brush was a bear pigging out on chokecherries. I hunkered down and watched it for a few minutes, but the few skeeters that were out started to come after me as I sat still.

Also, once you watch a bear eat for 30 seconds, it's the same as watching it eat for 30 minutes, only it takes a lot longer. When I stood up to leave, the movement caught its eye and scared it off into the brush.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, September 5, 2003

Perturbed at wearing big clunky boots

I've been a bit perturbed at the 6 inches or so of snow around here, and the corresponding necessity of wearing big clunky boots.

I wish I could acclimate my feet to walking in the snow without shoes somehow. I've tried it, actually. For very short distances. The experiences were bad enough every time that I don't think there's any hope of it ever working out. :-)

Also, oddly, I found out that the snow is dangerously slippery without some sort of aggressive tread strapped onto the bottom of your foot.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, December 8, 2003

Barefoot in a swamp

Walking barefoot through a swamp. I was noticing when I pushed my foot forward through mud or water, I could feel the flow of the liquid wanting to force itself under the nail and lift it.

It was giving me unpleasantly detailed visions of the nails being accidentally ripped off by a misstep. I later attacked them with a pair of clippers, and maybe went overboard by cutting off anything I could get at, which was quite a bit since I could lift the loose sections up.

They're presently drastically shortened far back behind the end of my toes.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 10, 2003

Nothing mystical about hiking barefoot

The part [in Ray Jardine's article at backpackinglight.com] about wearing thin shoes to 'be closer to being connected with the Earth'. Huh? Like, whoah, Gaia vibes, dude!

Major positive earth energy flows through your feet, dontcha know! .. .or maybe not. I almost wanted to think I understand this, even though I'd personally try to stay away from any mystical explanation of it.

I DO feel more 'connected' when walking around without shoes, but it's not mystical thing. I simply am actually interacting more with the environment. More sensory input, etc.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 20, 2003

Can't go barefoot when carrying a pack

If I'm carrying much of a pack at all, though, I pretty much have to wear shoes or sandals, unless I'm walking on soft sand or the like.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 5, 2003

Sandals are pointless in standing water

"I tend to walk long distances without shoes in the summer"

I tend to walk long distances without shoes in the summer.

Once the bottoms of your feet de-wimp from all that coddling inside shoes, it eliminates blisters and other discomforts.

I also love that fact that it gives me yet one more peripheral information input.

I can smell, hear, see, and without looking also be paying attention to all kinds of details about the ground underfoot at the same time.

Also, shoes die quick deaths when you go swamping with them regularly.

Gets expensive even if you go with the cheapass Walmart ones.

Mud doesn't seem to hurt my feet, apart from the odd ability the black swamp muck has to somehow stain your toenails black with repeated exposure.

It grows back out by about the end of January :-)
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, February 14, 2003

I often find it worth a few sharp sticks now and again [going barefoot] to be able to really notice the ground underfoot in great detail as I walk, not to mention the amazing silence improvement it makes.

And like this last Friday, if I just know I'm going to be walking through a lot of standing water anyway, even sandals are rather pointless. I've also found your feet toughen after a while.

The top sides of them are still wimpy, but I seem to be able to walk on briars without any notice. The main thing I really can't hack is walking on crushed gravel roads or paths. Those hurt!
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 5, 2003

"I can walk farther in sandals than anything else"

I can walk farther in sandals than anything else. Unshod is second-best, but only because enough mileage tends to nibble away the soles of your feet here and there eventually, no matter how careful you are about where you step.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 5, 2003

"I kind of wished that I had not worn my shoes"

I kind of wished that I had not worn my shoes. Trying to keep my feet dry was leading me to take some extreme measures in places. If I'd know how little snow there was left, I'd have walked along without them and simply walked through the water and occasional snow.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 1, 2003

"Walking around in either sandals or feet"

At the height of the bug season, it's usually wet and warm, so I'm walking around in either sandals or feet.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, December 18, 2002


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Wildlife encounters

Black bears v. brown bears and grizzly bears

Sees a fair number of black bear

For 2 or three years in a row, I saw a fair number. I hike a lot in the middle of the night though, and also occasionally crawl through very off-the-track places where you see more animals because they are not really assuming they will be seeing humans.

So far, I just attempt to act as if I belong there just as much as they do. I'm still here: so far it's worked.

I even was walking down a narrow foot path and had a mother and some cubs coming at me from the other way once at 3am or so, and decided it might not look good to retreat, so I kept walking.

The family got off the path. I looked back after I passed and they got back on and went on their way. No fuss whatsoever.

All the single bears I've seen were either scared of me, or apparently ignoring me.

Last year, I had one right next to me, but I never actually saw it.

It pulled down my tent on top of my head, but when I started cussing it out, it tore off into the brush hellbent for leather before I could get out of the tangle of tent.

I find this really hard to believe, but my best guess there was that it did not initially know the tent was occupied. As odd as this is, it's the best guess I can come up with to fit that strange event.

Being ultra-quiet increases your chances (risk?) of encountering bears. If you are tearing through the brush with the single-minded goal of covering distance in mind, probably nothing is going to bother you.

Basically, anything that goes along busting off sticks and making a helluva racket apparently is not at all worried that the whole woods knows exactly where it is.

Therefore, the way everything in the woods thinks, this noisy thing is most obviously one hellacious badass with no cause to fear anything, and is not to be messed with.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, April 30, 2003

From what I understand, the black ones here in Michigan are rather different from the browns and grizzlies you might encounter elsewhere.

Supposedly one is NOT supposed to at all confront a brown or grizzly. Be a docile wuss, all the way, according to what I read/hear. Black bears can be intimidated though, and more often than not, this will work.

I have not personally had to extensively test this, but so far with a good half dozen casual bear encounters over the last few years, I've gone so far as to continue on my way, or in other ways indicate that I apparently don't give a damn whether the bear is there or not.

I don't go after them, nor do I back down. I once had a mother and two cubs coming down a path at me one night, and simply kept on my way.

They got off the path, I kept going just as I had been, and I looked back to see them get back on the path and continue as well. Maybe this was dumb, but it worked, I guess.

The only one that was a slight problem is one that me and other employees had to keep scaring away from the dumpsters at a job I had.

Eventually, it got used to even such things as three of us running hell-bent straight at it, and we could not longer faze it no matter what we did. (It eventually got relocated by the DNR)

Now and again there's a story about some old lady who goes out in her yard and whacks one in the nose with a broom in her indignation at it disturbing her bird feeder or such.

I REALLY don't recommend that, but it also apparently works.

I once had one pull down my tent on top of me one morning.

The rude bastard woke me up at the ungodly hour of 8am or so one late summer day. Very rude, wouldn't you say?

I was annoyed. Partly out of actual thinking, but mostly out of annoyance, I was verbally giving it hell as I tried to get out of the mess of fabric.

It ran like its ass was on fire, though I should point out that evidence somewhat indicates that it had no idea there was a human being inside the tent. It was very surprised, I suppose.*

My final analysis concerning black bears is, if I ever think the situation is irredeemably desperate, I'm going to unhesitatingly go after it even to the point of punching it in the nose or sticking my fingers in its eyes or something such.

* In case anyone asks, no, I didn't have any food. I suppose it as just randomly curious about the tent.

I had set up late at night on the return trip from a long walk squirrel hunting the previous day.

The game was stashed elsewhere semi-distant, and was never touched.

I was sleeping next to my shotgun in a tiny bivy tent just waiting for morning to go back to main camp.

Had it come to that, I wouldn't probably have had a chance to use it.

Ever wake up in, and try to get out of a collapsed tent in 3 seconds or less? :-)
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, August 28, 2003


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Trespassing

"I had the choice of outright swimming, or trespassing"

I'm not sure about walking the beach [along Lake Superior,west of Whitefish Point]. When I did it, I got a few miles down the shoreline only to discover I had the choice of outright swimming, or trespassing, (or turning around and going back) as in a few places just west of Whitefish point, people have houses/cabins that had severe erosion problems in the high water levels a couple years back.

They then dumped loads of giant (washing-machine-sized) stones into the lake. The end result is a short cliff with a pile of stone at the bottom, which if you walk on, you are technically trespassing, or 6 feet or so of water right at the bottom of them. At least that was how it was when I was there.

No one was there, it being a vacation house, so I crawled up on the rocks and walked to the other end across them. I went straight across, surely didn't hurt the rocks any, but still, if I did it over again, I'd know where to get off and follow the road west away from the point, and then exit back to the beach on public land.

I would assume that you could walk the beach/water's edge the rest of the way to Crisp point after getting west of those couple of rockpile bluffs in front of the cabins.

I don't tend to worry about walking across unmarked ground without making a huge effort to know exactly who it belongs to as long as I'm just walking over it and passing on, but I am a bit squeamish about there being anything like a cabin on it. I stay away from those once I know they are there.

Initially as often as not, I've discovered them much by surprise in the first place by stepping out of the woods into a clearing with a cabin in it. Oops. (hell, who knew there was even /anything/ out here?)

Some people might be touchy about it nevertheless, but as I understand riparian law, it's legal to walk the beach in front of houses if you stay next to the edge of the water.

The technicality has something to do with how far the waves can reach, or seasonal high water level, or both. I would think if you were minding your own business and merely going along the water's edge, you could keep your feet dry and yet give all appearances of being respectful and just going by.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 25, 2003

 


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Bivouacking

Sleeping on the ground

Sleeping on the ground under a red pine

It was fairly warm and yet cool enough to be bug free last night, so after doing a bit of wandering around looking at the glowing clear sky, courtesy of the full moon, I laid my head on the roots of a big red pine somewhere in the state forest west of town and got my day's sleep there.

I'm back to take a shower and then go off and do those goofy Real World things now.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, August 13, 2003

I sometimes spend a few days in the summer out walking around with little to no gear and sleeping on the ground under a big tree somewhere, if it's warm and the bugs are not bad.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, December 18, 2002

"I simply slept on the ground"

I simply slept on the ground and put my jacket over my head to keep the bugs off me.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, June 26, 2003

Camps near top of hills

For weather reasons, I don't tend to camp on the highest spot anyway.

Usually just short of it, though, like near the top of a hill in a small hollow.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 12, 2003

Buried in leaves all night

"One reason I love sleeping out in the woods"

Regarding the part about the deer snorting and stomping outside the tent at night: this is one reason I love sleeping out in the woods, actually.

I can listen to all that stuff go on. I seem to be able to passively catalog such noise in my sleep to some degree, so that when I wake up, I can have some idea what went through and when, and where it was going.

"A deer walked from my right, past my head, and then to my left", for example.

Once or twice I've apparently set up in what is a minor run, and if the weather is right, the deer get close before they wind me, and you can hear them doing that cough and whistle thing in alarm all night as they pass.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, February 26, 2003

Two years ago I think it was up here that firearm deer season started out record warm with daytime highs near 80 or something absurd.

Nights were also warm, to the extent that I extemporaneously decided to spend the night sleeping in the woods near my hunting spot. I gathered the fallen leaves and filled up a hollow on top of a hill--a hollow created by where a tree had fallen over and the rootball took out dirt sometime in the past.

I then just got down in the leaves until I was buried, and slept the night quite comfortably. Anyway, it was cool to hear the deer moving all around at night then too.

That is a unique memory that is not likely to be repeated, because the weather and time of year were perfect for it. Other times of year, the leaves are not around like that, or it rains, or the leaves are wet from past rains. Most often, it's far too cold by the time the leaves are down.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, February 26, 2003

Sleeping under a 100-year-old hemlock

When camping when the bugs have gone, and it is somewhat cold, I head off into the thick cedar/balsam swamps if possible.

I like camping under a big huge hemlock if I can find one, but they take a long time to grow, and most areas have been logged in the last 100 years some time or other.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, January 21, 2003

"I was napping on the ground"

Settling-in for foul weather

The weather is rather unsettled today. Windy and slightly unnerving; the kind of day when you hardly even see so much as a chickadee.

I perhaps just forgot the weather forecast, but I was expecting it to remain above freezing for another most of a week, but it's already down to like near 20 this midday.

By the 'feel' of things, if I was out camping, I'd be hauling in firewood and getting ready to settle in for some imminent possible nastiness from the elements.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, December 15, 2002

I was napping on the ground a few days ago, so maybe spiders got me or something [leaving welts on my arms].
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, October 12, 2003

Sounds of the woods

I like sleeping in the woods for the sounds. You can hear the wind around you, and animals moving and all that. At least I do.

I somehow often catalog this input in my sleep. It won't wake me up, but when I do wake up, I can run through what I heard, sometimes.

Then again, maybe it's just the white noise in general.

I sleep at home in the same room as an Athlon computer system that sounds like a mini wind tunnel, and if it's doing something intensive overnight, the hard drive is clicking and whirring away too. :-D
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, December 31, 2002

 

 


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Remote encampments

"I found a fabulous place to camp"

 
  A lean-to structure thought to be one of Chris Hallaxs'. Click on photo for high-resolution imagery. (Photo courtesy of Chris Ozminski)

I was actually thinking about tarps the other day due to something I came across.

I think it's on private ground, maybe, but while snowshoeing the other day (yeah, you still can't walk in the woods around here without at least knee high boots) I found a fabulous place to camp just outside of Paradise: Three glacial ridges, or maybe old sand dunes, come together in what would vaguely resemble the "Mercedes" logo from the air.

At the top of the junction of these, there is the slickest little hollow about 12 feet deep and perhaps a hundred in diameter. This is ideal for summer cool weather, in that you are up on a hill and away from where the cold air settles overnight, but also down in a hollow so that the wind mostly goes overhead.

I seek out such situations as much as possible year-round, but I've never seen such a perfect one before. This one is also too close to town to be of any use even without the dubious land ownership status, but it was still nifty to see.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, April 14, 2003


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Remote caches

Chris was known to establish equipment and provision caches at remote locations in the bush, presumably at his remote bivouac and encampment sites.

Much of the cached material would have been placed in variously-colored (especially white and green) 5-gallon pickle buckets he had access to, particularly at one of his jobs.

With the lid secured on a pickle bucket, he would stash it one of three ways:

  • On terra firma, camouflaged for concealment
  • Buried
  • Hung from a tree limb with rope, particularly in the case of rations, which needed to be out of reach of roaming animal.

5-gallon, pickle-bucket caches

 
  Animal-pillaged, pickle-bucket cache thought to be one of Chris Hallaxs'. Click on photo for high-resolution imagery. (Photo courtesy of Chris Ozminski)

Something I have done before just to keep raccoons and squirrels and whatever out of my food is just put it in a five gallon plastic bucket with a tight-sealing snap on lid. Pickle buckets from restaurants work good.

This isn't a very good backpacking solution, of course. The other thing, admittedly, is that if this was done a lot, the bears would learn to investigate buckets. The idea was just to keep any potential food smells sealed in. This did require some care about what you got on the outside of the bucket.

I'm assuming it works since the squirrels didn't so much as put a single toothmark on the plastic. If they smelled or thought there was something in there, they'd have made a decent effort to gnaw on it, I'd guess from past observation.

A few years ago for a while I had a similar five gallon bucket with some non-perishable stuff buried a ways away from home in the local area. It was buried a few inches in the ground on private ground accessible to me. If I ended up out a long ways, I could just go there, camp, hand have supper. Now and again when driving by, I'd maybe put something else in it.

I have since picked it back up, but this was in place over a year and nothing bothered it. Aside from the sealing lid, the thin layer of dirt over the top probably helps keep any food smell down.

As far as human beings finding it? Nah. First, they'd have to literally step on it, and I'm not even sure then.

For that reason, when stashing anything for even a day in the woods in general somewhere, I stick them somewhere where a human being will not be walking, like near or in the lee of some obstruction. At times I have ditched small backpacks or other gear on extended dayhikes, simply leaving it within feet of a trail somewhere in the leaves, and then picked it up on the way back at the end of the day.

In the winter, with snow, this is even easier yet.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 6, 2003

 


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Snow shelter construction

"You can dig down into it and be relatively cozy"

"Playing a bit to make a snowshelter"

I finally got around to playing a bit to make a snowshelter.

With a shovel and a machete, I first dug a rectangular hole in the snow, then began using the machete to chop out large blocks from the snow on the ground, stacking them up around the hole.

In about 45 minutes, or at least not quite an hour, I had a shelter big enough for two side-by side sleeping bags, and high enough inside to stand in if bent over.

No matter how cold it is, the inside of one of those is always going to be *completely* wind free, and also probably right about 30 degrees.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, February 26, 2003

If there's a lot of snow (a few feet), 30 below isn't as bad as you'd think. You can dig down into it and be relatively cozy. It makes setting up camp each night rather a hassle. I've survived perhaps not 35 below but nearly -30 with a groundpad, a 14F rated sleeping bag, and an acrylic blanket in it, all in a hole in the snow.

I wasn't toasty, but I was also in not even close to being in danger of freezing either. Being severely tired from snowshoeing all day made it entirely possible to sleep anyway whereas you might not otherwise be comfortable enough.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 25, 2003

"Used a full-sized machete to chop out slabs of snow"

Before the thaw hit, I was out for a couple days in the area, and used a full-sized machete to chop out slabs of snow from the ground. The crust was hard enough underneath that you could carve out slabs. One top there was a few inches of soft powder or dust, but underneath, there was a thick hard layer. Several layers that kind of flaked apart.

I took the machete and chopped out a square, brushed the dust off the top, dug around the sides, and then chopped underneath to free it from the ground, and then grabbed an edge and tried to pick it up and stand it on edge like a tombstone. It broke. Damn. I tried again in another spot. That one broke too, but almost held. When in doubt....THINK.

Hmm...I moved the south side of an open hill, where the sun had made the snow crustier ,and repeated the experiment. Good deal, though it was all I could manage to do to pick up and stand a 6 foot wide, 8 foot long chunk of snow a bit more than a foot thick. It probably weighs a few hundred pounds, but I don't have to actually lift it, just tip it up.

I ALMOST couldn't do it. I got it about so it would balance perfect, and then went across from it, about 3 feet away, and made another one, and tipped it up also, Then, I very carefully topped them together so I had a kind of lean-to tent made out of two slabs of snow. A triangular tube. Barely wide enough to slither feet first down into. But...it was not of course yet long enough. I'm six feet tall, so it needed to be longer.

I made another set of slabs to one end and added on, then, since i had take care to leave the snow unbroken at one end, I was able to tip another small one up to close off one end. Nice little windproof shelter. Perhaps this wouldn't work most years, but the snow worked for it at that moment.

Now, it has thawed too much, though it does freeze at night, so possibly I could build one like this in the early morning, and it would then stand through the day once set up.

By the way, this isn't the same as one I earlier talked about. This triangular one I actually slept in overnight and it reached zero or so, and I was fine inside there with a $9.99 Kmart special, 40-F rated sleeping bag and two light blankets inside it.

Earlier this year, I built one out of stacked blocks of snow just as an experiment, and mentioned it here, though I didn't actually stay in it.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, March 20, 2003

"Digging a hole"

Comfort under a huge spruce

If I had needed to stay out overnight, I'd have simply found a huge spruce in a deep thick swamp, and built a tiny fire underneath.

Such fires as I am wont to build are not going to melt the snow out of the tree on me.

If suitable dry fuel permits (wet wood needs bigger fires) I'll make little ones and sometimes even sit with a leg on each side of it, slowly feed it sticks ,and occasionally pushing it back together.

With the temps near zero, despite the snow, any hanging dead branches are very dry and a small hot fire would be effortless to make.

I could have grabbed a few balsam boughs to sit on off the snow, and cooked up my bird and simply been sleepless by morning is all.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, February 14, 2003

Starting by digging a hole, and then removing the top soft layer of snow from the edges of it to build on gives you a bit over 2 feet to start with. Maybe 3 in some places. It doesn't take many large blocks to get it 4 feet high, and I kinda tilted the walls in a bit as I went, then merely cut some longer blocks and bridged the top over. I then threw loose snow over the outside to "grout" the chinks.

If I were to fill the floor with balsam branches or something (don't fret regarding LNT and that--you can often find whole trees busted off by the snow load :-) I'd want to add a bit more height. I spent about 45 minutes. I'd probably, if this were real, spend another 10 or fifteen working out some kind of wind- resistant or windproof doorway.

You could ad a few more minutes and get one almost big enough to stand in. Add some sticks for support into the design, and if you had a couple people to help each other, you could probably come up with something that would almost make a tiny cabin in a couple hours.

The snow is perfect right now for this though. If you handle it carefully, it readily chops up into soft but integral chunks right off the ground.

The most I have ever done like this in practice was dig a trench kinda as if I was digging my own grave, putting down a tarp, then my sleeping gear, and covering over the top with slabs of snow, or brush with snow piled over it.

This makes a low hole that you have to slither down into feet first, but even if you leave the end open, if the wind is not too bad, it is much warmer than a tent.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, February 27, 2003

"Digging a sort of slit trench down into the snow"

If you have enough snow, I've had great luck just by digging a sort of slit trench down into the snow so the wind goes over top of me and leaves me alone down there. If it were to snow and/or blizzard, that would be annoying as it would fill up full of snow, though.

A couple years ago, I simply dug the same sort of "snow grave" into the snow, but piled some loose brush over the top and buried it so it had a roof of sorts, mostly by piling up the chunks of snow I had dug out of the hole.

I woke up into drizzle, but was fine down under my roof as far as precipitation went. I was getting sort of wet from it being foggy and 35 degrees or so, but that was condensation, and would have occurred no matter what.

If I had the same setup and it snowed, It would simply bury me in all the cozier.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, January 5, 2004

 


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Brush-hut shelter construction

Wickiup

I ALMOST built one of these [a wickiup] late last summer, probably out a mile or a few from my parents' cabin, with the intention that I could come back to it later in fall or even winter and stay in it.

As it turned out, I was lazy, or something, and never got around to it. I also recall two or three days where I had intended to go pick an spot and make one, and it was 40 and rained for the whole time.

A combination of laziness and circumstance. I've only read about them. There being no suitable mud nearby--everything here is sand--I was going to use the woven wattlework construction; you weave a sort of rough 'basket' of sticks for the inside wall, then the outside, and stuff the inner and outer walls with a foot thick or more of leaves and fine brush.

The only significant problem with this is that the mice apparently see a flashing neon "Cozee Condominium(tm) VACANCIES!" sign on the front of it when you get done, but from what I've read, and experienced, they would likely just stay in the walls. I'd have probably scrounged up some birch bark shells from fallen logs to layer the roof to waterproofness.

You can often find foot diameter paper birch logs where the log inside is so rotten, you can upend the bark and dump the log out. The wood rots, but the bark does not as readily do so.

Building it to stand the winter snowload would have required a little bit of attention as well, but they are said to be, and I imagine they are, quite surprisingly strong.

Granted, this is not leave-no-trace compatible, but you will for the most part make them out of dead materials anyway, with perhaps some green brush which will grow back in a year or three(or green stuff from a local logged area full of treetops).

It leaves a trace, but leaves no real impact in the long term, since the end result will probably be undetectable to the casual eye, and if left neglected, will just disappear into the humus layer like all the other brush and tree trash.

Further, if you use the area a lot, it is a fairly permanent shelter that minimizes the impact of having to constantly flatten or otherwise prepare another place to pitch a tent. Also, for places where you have permission, of course.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, March 9, 2003


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Hunting

Rabbits

Even the bit of logging road is sort of closed, in that the 4 foot deep roadside ditch cuts across the entrance. I waded this, and didn't walk far before I saw rabbits, still with traces of white in their fur.

I was able to stand still and watch two of them moving around a bit over 20 feet away and apparently unconcerned that I was there. This I found odd for two reasons.

I have made some half-assed attempts to hunt them in the winter, and haven't been able to get closer than somewhat over 100 yards to them at best.

They are supposedly fairly easy to get with a .22, but I haven't learned the pattern of it, nor have I really expended hardly any effort at finding it out, really.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 4, 2003

Deer

Two years ago I think it was up here that firearm deer season started out record warm with daytime highs near 80 or something absurd. Nights were also warm, to the extent that I extemporaneously decided to spend the night sleeping in the woods near my hunting spot.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, February 26, 2003

I haven't had more than a dayhike here and there since just before rifle deer season. I never got around to taking the time to participate in that this year, either. I just did two or three days of grouse/squirrel hunting just before deer season opened.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, January 8, 2003

I'm formulating a plan here....I prefer venison to about anything you can find in a grocery store, but I don't have any. So, I'm thinking I can poach some deer, eat those, get arrested, go to jail, and eat more venison.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 27, 2003

Ruffed grouse

Despite evidence of being struck [a ruffed grouse, by a snowmobile], it was in better shape than some I've killed with a shotgun before (I've since gone to shooting the heads with a .22 for that reason).
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, February 14 & 20, 2003

Don't overcook them [a ruffed grouse] though, or they get horrid dry. They're so lean they make venison seem greasy. My preferred method of cooking is on a campfire for maximum flavor.

Just salt them a bit and put 'em on a stick or grill over it. The breast meat is thick though, and I usually end up cooking it for a while, eating the outside and smaller cooked parts, then putting it back in when I hit raw meat.

Otherwise, by the time it's done inside, the outside is overdone or even burnt. Perhaps this isn't good food safety regarding salmonella and whatnot, but I figure what I actually eat is cooked. So far so good, I guess.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, January 29, 2003

I just did two or three days of grouse/squirrel hunting just before deer season opened.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, January 8, 2003


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Gathering

Mushrooms

"Yooper wheat"

The...thing is some kind of grass that grows in swamps, kind of in the open areas on spruce/cedar/hemlock swamps, I think.

I've been long familiar with this on sight, but just a few days ago noticed it for the abundance and size of the seeds it makes.

It is in the botanical sense a grass, and grows about waist high. The leaves are unusual in that they are very bristly, almost to the point that they stick to fabric.

I attempted to arrange the seed heads on the scanner bed as they appear when growing. The stalks lean over, and the seed heads dangle downward exactly as it looks.

I had a helluva time trying to get it home with any of the seeds still on. They are ripe when brown, it seems, and fall off at a touch.

I grabbed a handful of the loose seeds out of the bottom of my backpack and dumped them on the scanner bed in a small pile.

This grass has caught my attention because the seeds are plentiful, and also rather large for a wild grass. It would be well worth one's bother to harvest them if you were looking for food in the woods.

2 days ago, I rubbed some in the palm of my hand to de-husk them, and blew the chaff away (just as you would do to eat a handful of wheat straight off the stalk in the field) and ate maybe 2 tablespoons full of the seeds.

They are good. Kinda like wheat or barley. I didn't get a stomach ache, or turn colors, and I'm still alive to post this. :-)

...maybe I should collect a bunch and see if I can make beer with it. I could call it "swamp water" or "bog juice" or something.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, September 8, 2003

I don't often look for morels, but do happen to sometimes see a bunch now and again.

It's rather dry up here this year, which has caused me to be a bit slacking in my intent to check out a patch of woods a couple miles away where the ground was practically carpeted with them a year ago.

They might not have grown due to it being dry.

One time, I had only some blocks of ramen noodles with me for food, and as I was walking along, I could actually SMELL morels.

Well, at least I thought I did.

When I poked around in the brush, trying to follow the air currents, I did indeed find a couple handfuls. I'm not exactly real keen on the things, but free food is good, and it's not like anything added to ramen can help but be anything other than improvement :-)

BTW, I'm told/have read that to cause the least injury to the fungus so that they'll be there in the future, cut the stem off at the ground and disturb the 'roots' as little as absolutely possible.

Fungi do not technically have roots, but the underground fibrous network that vaguely resembles them is delicate, and also what really *is* the main organism.

The little caps on stalks that pop up above ground are a pretty minor part of the whole thing.

Some also recommend carrying the cut mushrooms in a mesh bag both to keep them aired to prevent spoilage, and supposedly so that as you carry them, the spores can escape and seed more morels.

I have some doubts that the second reason is logically sound, but it can't hurt, and I admit that my information is a bit fuzzy on why it would or wouldn't work. May 21
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 21, 2003

Beech nuts

Shortly before noon, I'm on my way again, and after I stop to pick up a couple handfuls of beech nuts, I'm there.

Well, all told, this was like 20 hours, wasn't it?

Then again, I had not intended on having to stop to repair beaver dams.

Also, something in my right foot hurts like hell when I walk.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, November 11, 2002

 

 


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Living off the land

Is it edible or poisonous

"Living like an animal"

It is interestingly challenging to work at obtaining food and water and shelter out in the woods, but when staying long term, it becomes all-consuming and ultimately leaves no room for anything mentally rigorous.

While to some extent I think that "living like an animal" is not as big a deal as most people would regard it--since humans ARE animals--they are also, supposedly, abstractly thinking animals, and no matter how many clever tricks you can accumulate regarding living primitively, it's still not really a life for a human being, as it leaves out the mind.

Anything that makes a living in the woods knows many clever tricks, after all.

In fact, I constantly learn things from watching or tracking everything from mice to birds to moose to coyotes.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, March 29, 2003

I guess I've never attempted to dig up lily pad roots before, either because they grow in nasty places, were too deep, and because I didn't want to purposely disturb them.

I'm wondering if they are edible, though?
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, September 1, 2003

"My biggest wonder about trying to live off the land"

Someone had dropped a pamphlet from the Toonerville Trolly on the path at the top [of Upper Tahquamenon Falls, south bank]. It mostly describes 11 kinds of trees the visitors are likely to see.

Of especial interest, I note that White Cedar was called Arborvitae by the early French, which means "Tree of Life".

It said that tea made from the bark or foliage is high in vitamin C, and so prevented scurvy.

That was always my biggest wonder about trying to live off the land in the woods around here: "Where the hell would you ever get enough vitamin C?" Fascinating.

My second biggest, still unanswered, is where would you find salt? I seriously think that might be a big enough concern over extended lengths of time to be possibly serious, if not as bad as the scurvy thing.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 25, 2003

"A handful of beech nuts"

Shortly before noon, I'm on my way again, and after I stop to pick up a couple handfuls of beech nuts, I'm there. Well, all told, this was like 20 hours, wasn't it? Then again, I had not intended on having to stop to repair beaver dams. Also, something in my right foot hurts like hell when I walk.

This, like the footsoreness, is not unusual in general. Minor things seem to come and go during long walks, don't they? Though, whatever the pain is, it's not anything I've had before. It annoys me because I don't know what it is, I think.

On all-day walks, such things come and go. They slow you down a bit, maybe. I guess the 4 hour rest was not strictly called for either. I could have gone without it, but what the hell. It's not like this was a death march, or like I had any strict itinerary.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, November 11, 2002

Unknown plant didn't seem poisonous

"What is edible"

Unfortunately, it's not quite so easy to figure out what is edible by trial and error, so that department has me rather stumped on how to even make any inroads on it via the self-teaching method.

I once saw a chipmunk picking and carrying off the berries of some plant, and later read that the berries I saw were potently lethal, leaving me to wonder if I was mistaken on the plant's identity, the chipmunk was going to be dead soon, or (least likely, I thought) that the chipmunk could somehow eat something that could kill me, even though we are both mammals.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, February 17, 2003

A week or so ago, I took note of a some scrubby brushy, bush-type plant that seems to like growing in the most arid sand hills and dunes. It has woody stems, and kind of gradually spreads, much like Labrador Tea or similar.

It has thin, saw-toothed leaves about 3" long. (No, not cannabis--this stuff only gets a foot or two high, and has woody stems)

The "teeth" on the leaves are rounded on the ends, and do not come to sharp points.

Anyway, this stuff smells great. Something like sassafras and sage and maybe basil and that kind of thing. I was thinking it would make fantastic seasoning.

I tried to find out what it was, and if it was poisonous. I can't find it anywhere online, and don't have books handy.

So I tried chewing up a leaf of it, and then spitting it out. No blisters or other adverse effects. Two days later, I chewed up a couple and held the ma while before spitting them out. Nothing. Then later, I ate one. Nothing. A day later I ate several, on an empty stomach no less.

Today, I cooked a steak and crumbled the dry leaves on it. FANTASTIC. I recommend it most heartily. I'm thinking of harvesting this stuff in quantity and drying and running the leaves through a food processor and storing up a half gallon of the result. I still wonder if it's maybe mildly toxic or something.

Then again, in the quantities used as a spice, maybe it doesn't matter. I seem to recall a few of the common kitchen spices are somewhat poisonous in meal-sized quantities. They never get eaten except by the teaspoonful here or there, though.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, October 10, 2003

"I found a grouse laying in the trail"

Dream: Living among hunter-gatherers

I had a really long detailed one [dream] a few months before that where I was trying to pick up the tail end of a trail I know of through a swamp by the cabin, and about midday realized I had apparently wandered off of the face of the earth somehow, because at some point I started finding impossible things that didn't match the terrain I knew.

I ended up running into a village of silver-gray skinned hunter-gatherer, agrarian type people, and since there was no way back, ended up eventually married and with kids there.

Kind of sucks to seem to have lived most of a lifetime right down to the minute-to-minute detail and then wake up and find out it's not real after all. It's slightly confusing for a few minutes.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, January 11, 2003

I found a grouse laying in the trail that that snowmobiler had apparently hit. The body itself was still warm, but due to the extreme cold, the legs, wings, and neck were already half frozen.

Despite evidence of being struck, it was in better shape than some I've killed with a shotgun before (I've since gone to shooting the heads with a .22 for that reason). Seemed a shame to let it go to waste on a coyote, and they are tasty, so I stuffed it in my backpack.

Hey, if I get lost today, I can cook it over a fire while I hole up somewhere waiting for dawn!

Oh, and the bird I picked up that day? I barbecued it on the grill last night. It was well worth dragging home.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, February 14 & 20, 2003

"I look at tree bark, weeds, and everything else around trying to think if it would be useful"

I am always thinking like "if I didn't have a tent, and had to stay out right now, right here, what would I do?" or "if I didn't have a fire...." and so on. In most cases, in my case it simply means "I'd be screwed", pretty much.

But still, I look at tree bark, weeds, and everything else around trying to think if it would be useful for something or other. The best example of this I can think of is noticing where flammable stuff is.

Almost any time of year or weather, in most any kind of forest around here, I can walk a minute or two and collect some kind or other of things that are dry enough to work as tinder and kindling, or else will burn anyway if wet.

Paying attention to how the wind moves around the hills and through the trees is helpful for finding the best shelter, which can reduce your need to carry so much bedding or shelter materials.

Knowing where to find water can reduce your need to carry so much of that.

I've read multiple independent assertions that there is not anywhere in north America, even in the most notoriously brutal dry spots, that one cannot walk through without even a canteen and find enough water if they know what they are doing.

Of course, very few know enough about what they are doing for this.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, February 17, 2003

Bush hermits will "end up in jail or a psychic ward"

Red squirrels

You'd starve to death trying to live [on] them [red squirrels] in the winter.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, January 16, 2003

They'll [hermits living in the bush] get squeezed out, forced to conform, or end up in jail or a psychic ward as the opportunity and amount of freedom for such activities diminishes.

If you are on state or federal land, it is illegal squatting, and it would take a fair amount of desolate land to be able to move around enough to keep fed, and that means your tracks would eventually be noticed, or one of your cooking fires, or something such.

If you own your own land and vanish onto it, it will eventually get taken for back property taxes, or by eminent domain for something, or you'll be zoned out it somehow. I think largely you mostly have to participate in the political system out of grudging self defense. If you drop out, it's a practical surrender.

The few psychopaths who actually live for the offensive use of politics spoil it for everyone else. It's okay. There will be more nifty pills invented to help them cope with it, I'm sure.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, January 17, 2004

 

 


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Fire building

"Molotov Cedar Cocktail" or "Incendiary Idiocy"

 
  An experimental campfire. Click on photo for high-resolution imagery. (Photo courtesy of Chris Hallaxs' digital archives)

Okay, yesterday I did at once one of the dumber and yet more impressive things I've ever accomplished, at the same time.

I've always wanted to try building a fire without artificial aids, (unless you count a knife) and someone mentioned something that happened to remind me of this.

It's very dry right now, so it probably couldn't ever be easier. I set out to do so yesterday morning.

I did play with a lighter somewhat, sampling various things I had picked up from weeds and off trees as possible tinders.

Then with a collection of pine needles and plant down and shavings and other stuff, constructed what I hoped would be a fire.

After tired hands, and hours of fiddling, I had some smoldering going on. Incendiary foreplay, you might say.

So after hours of work are paying off, I'm intent on this. I'm right down inches from the smoke, blowing air on it, nursing it along.

I've got my arms right around the little mound of tinder. The smoke increases, but I still can't get actual flame. After a bit more, the thing is smoking helaciously, and the amount of stuff smoking is increasing too. Then all of a swoon "Fwoomp" it goes up.

Fighting
a forest fire

A few years ago, I and another guy were first on the scene of a small fire just east of Upper Tahquamenon falls on M-123.

I remember almost wanting to stop and laugh (though I was too busy to do so), because I was standing in knee deep black sludge and water, trying to put out a frighteningly persistent fire.

At the time it hadn't rained in about a month. You could stamp a section out, turn your back and hear a "fwoomp" and it would have re-lit itself just from the ground heat, apparently.

The point is, the fire was doing just great with the grass hummocks and brush even though it was mostly burning on top of standing water.

By the same token, the ground wasn't much affected at all.

It killed some trees, but now, a couple years later, you'd have to go out in the woods and look around close to tell that anything had happened.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, April 28,, 2003

Dried brown cedar foliage is surprisingly, amazingly, fearsomely flammable.

I lost all the hair on my right arm, singed my mustache, some of my hair, and my right eyebrow, and somehow pretty much totally lost my right eyelashes.

Of course, this didn't hurt me in the least. It barely felt warm before I got away from it. Still, I was rather jubilant overall. It worked! What a pain in the ass, though. I'm torn whether to keep trying this to see if it gets easier, or to just be content I did it once and be sane and use lighters.

Just to round out a day of experimentation---Walking back home, I passed some balsam trees; the young ones that still have the sap-filled blisters in the bark.

I read somewhere these are good to eat. I popped a couple and licked it up. Hmm...It's not ....*bad*... but it is strange. Somehow almost minty, and basically tastes like gin. I like gin. It reminds me of balsam trees. The next couple of hours, I kept burping pine.

Actually unrelated to this in any way, someone in Canada just this morning was telling me about "Buckley's" Cough syrup. Apparently, the stuff tastes horrible, but supposedly works.

That's their slogan actually boasts that it tastes terrible. One of the main ingredients is balsam pine sap or oil.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, September 10, 2003

Low-impact fire wood collection

Usually, you can easily find some 6 foot tall, standing dead pine without needles, and it contains everything you need for a fire. Fine branches, bigger branches farther down, and various sizes of trunk to build the fire up.

Even nicer, you can even just rip the things out of the ground and carry them off with one hand and leaving no ugly chopped off stump. I don't like to leave traces of having been there.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 25, 2003

Fire pistons

Gas line antifreeze turned fire starter

Some way along, I found a full, unopened pint bottle of alcohol gas line antifreeze.

The weather indicated rain was possible still today, so figuring it might be handy for starting a fire later, I tossed it in my pack.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 25, 2003

Anyone ever heard of these things? They are apparently semi-ancient in origin.

The aboriginals who first made them of course think they must use certain materials to complete the spell or invoke the magic or gods or whatever, but essentially, it uses compression to create heat, in the same way that a diesel engine's cylinder ignites the fuel.

I'm intrigued. I'm looking more into this. So far, the most info I have found in single web page is here: http://www.onagocag.com/piston.html
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, August 4, 2003

Winter fires

I've found that in some cases building a fire in the winter is easier. Finding dry wood is easier. the bottom dead branches of trees are full of dry wood. Snow is dry. Having much of a fire requires digging a hole down the ground, though.

I've only had a campfire once. I try not to do it because it's hard to clean the fire site up properly in the snow.

In the summer or fall, I can dig out a firepit, burn it out, fill it back in, drop the sod back on top and leave nothing but some trampled ferns even on a close inspection. Random bits of charcoal get away from you easier in the snow, and then lay around on the ground come spring.

Maybe this isn't a huge deal. After a single year, the forest litter will probably cover it. Or you could go back months later and fix it. Most of the woods has burned several times in the past in Michigan anyway, and digging around in the woods turns up charcoal in most places, I suppose.

On the plus side, forest fire danger is literally zero. You couldn't get a forest fire going even if you tried your best and had a napalm cannon to work with.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 25, 2003

Low impact firemaking

Hot, not big, campfires

Heh. Yeah, it's too easy to lose aluminum in a hot campfire for one thing. I've melted aluminum down in a campfire for amusement before.

The stuff just can't take heat...or maybe I'm just overzealous in making sure I have a hot fire?

I said hot, not "big"...I usually sit 18 inches away from my fires. Having to find and cut wood by hand makes you stingy about it, and big fires eat wood.

Also, a tiny fire can be easily cleaned up and leave zero trace to find--one time I forgot a knife stuck in a log and wandered back over my own campsite twice while looking, without recognizing it at first because I had left so little sign.

I have no reason to think aluminum is going to kill me, but I'm not entirely comfortable using something that reactive to cook in, either.

Sometimes it gives some things a very strong metal taste, and even if that's harmless, it's nasty.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, December 18, 2002

That's one (out of a hundred at least) reasons I carry my Ontario SP-8 It's a 12-inch long (or so) 1/4" thick heavy chopping blade with a chisel-sharpened, square end.

Four whacks cuts out a hole, for waste purposes or for a tiny fire pit. You set the plug to the side. When you are done using it, you drop the plug back in and maybe step it down.

Even for fire pits, I've come by weeks or months later and only because I knew PRECISELY where the spot was, noticed that the vegetation on the plug was still doing well. The actual edges of the plug are so far always impossible ot determine without prodding at the ground to pick them back out by feel.

Otherwise, it would be impossible to even locate at all.

This is highly specific to this area, but the organic layer in the woods is usually mere inches deep, with sand underneath. For a fire, I chop out a round wad of rootbound stuff, dig some sand out and set it aside.

After the fire is out, probably with water added anyway, even though the fires are often double-handful sized and went out hours ago and are cold gray ash which you can stick your fingers in. The sand gets packed back in, the rootball goes back on top, complete with live plants.

Toss a handful of dead leaves at it and run a hand over it and it's invisible. The most lasting trace is the packed spot on the ground where I slept.

As far as leaving bits of charcoal or ash in the ground, it's right near the surface. The woods have had so many fires over the years that as often as not, you dig up bits of charcoal in the process of making the hole. The ash is fertilizer.

Of course chopping up the root layer isn't probably good in erosion areas, but then also, one doesn't usually camp on a noticeable slope of any sort, unless you want to roll downhill in your sleep :-)
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, May 10, 2003

Winter firewood collection

This [ability to find firewood] depends on the weather and where you are going. Fuel availability in the snowbelt regions in midwinter is often excellent! The snow tears branches off the trees all winter long, so there is often a lot laying around.

If it has stayed below 25 or so, the debris is often drier than it would be at any time in the summer. For once, even, something works out nice: The colder it is, the drier everything is. (and the better fire you'll thus have)
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, November 15, 2003

 

 


Primitive cooking

Smoking game

Building an "oven" style campfire

The kinds of fires I tend to make are perhaps good for this kind of thing, as they kind of form an oven as a byproduct of their structure.

I initially start a small fire and get it going with just twigs and stuff, then when it's going fairly well, put a log on two sides of it, then lay two logs the other way across those.

This is good for burning to ashes, being very hot yet self-contained, and not smoking much, because air comes in the sides underneath and then runs up the center.

The logs facing each other reflects the heat in on itself and intensifies the fire. The outsides of the bottom logs often are not even burning.

While it doesn't make much for coals, there still are a good white-hot bed in the bottom, and you can shove things(like onions) in the ends between the bottom two logs as if it were an oven.

If more coals are desired, simply throw on more wood as if you were trying to smother the fire with wood, such as by putting more wood across and blocking off the "chimney" in the middle, or shoving wood in the open ends to fill in the gap in the center.

Pretty much you can let this arrangement burn down, use the coals, and then put logs back on and rebuild it.

Or, if I take care to carefully match the pairs of logs so that they burn equally (equal size, geometry, type of wood, dampness) I can pretty much keep adding onto the top forever and it will keep burning straight down from the bottom up.

That is, the log pairs burn and collapse about equally at and the same time, so as not to let one side down and tip it over.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, October 10, 2003

I even eat them [red squirrel], though they don't taste very good at all, but smoke anything over a campfire and it's semi-tolerable.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, January 16, 2003

Cooking potatoes and onions in coals of fire

Maybe I'm having a streak of good luck, for today, I finally seem to have perfected the method of throwing a potato in fire coals and figuring out when it is somewhere reasonably between raw inside and hard cinder.

It seems the secret is to wait until it starts smoking somewhat on the outside. It won't do that until the outside has dried enough to smolder, which it can't do until it cooks the water out. At that point, leave it a bit longer. Yeah, exactly a little while. You know.

At this point, it technically still isn't done, but you flip it out with a stick and leave it sit around somewhere. The superhot outside will cook or finish cooking the inside, and it will also cool so you don't burn your fingers when peeling the charred skin off to eat it.

I've tried spearing them with a green stick, but while you can cook meat and some other things this way, potatoes take too long at too high of heat to cook, and the stick burns off fairly soon and drops the tater in the fire to incinerate, and that's the end of that.

Buoyed by my success at producing two edible, delicious, even, potatoes, I tried an onion. I almost peeled it by reflex, and then happened to think that was stupid. I threw it in the fire assuming the same system as the potatoes.

When it was deemed done, I rolled it out with a stick. After it was out of the fire, I found out that, just like the potatoes, it could be handled with bare hands with little trouble. Surprising. I guess the outside gets so dry and fluffed up with char that it can't transfer heat well.

The onion was a definitely a success. Next time I have a fire, I'm bringing onions. Maybe a bagfull! I won't try to describe it, because I can't think of why it was so good, but it's good, trust me.

Like the onions on shish kebabs, or the bits of still slightly crunchy onion on a Supreme Pan Pizza, only a bit better. This was just a plain old humble yellow onion, too. I wonder if I could get one of the big sweet red ones to cook okay, despite the size?
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, October 10, 2003

A low-impact pit fire for cooking steaks and an onion

By about 2230 I had worked my way back to the river. I was still debating on spending the night out or not. After a half hour or so of mostly sitting around, resting, thinking, listening, I decided to at least cook my steaks.

I chopped out a hole in the forest rootmass with the machete and made myself a little firepit, and went about collecting wood to fill it. I found a bunch of sticky White Pine cones, which make good tinder, then some of the fine wire-like, dead spruce and balsam branches that make such great early fire material, and on up.

Usually, you can easily find some 6 foot tall, standing dead pine without needles, and it contains everything you need for a fire. Fine branches, bigger branches farther down, and various sizes of trunk to build the fire up.

Even nicer, you can even just rip the things out of the ground and carry them off with one hand and leaving no ugly chopped off stump.

I don't like to leave traces of having been there. After the fire got going, I basically tried to smother it by covering it with 3-4" diameter chunks of other dead stuff I had chopped up into lengths.

This temporarily starves it of air somewhat and promotes coals, which is necessary to help when burning dead dry 'gopher wood' like this, as it practically wants to just flash into ash. This is also by design though, because it burns out quickly and is gone.

Also, for what I was doing, I only need a fire slightly bigger than I could theoretically hold in my two hands, if I had asbestos gloves. When it was starting to die back down, It was now nearing midnight and the skeeters had slacked off significantly. Annoying, but tolerable.

I decided I could probably take a bath in the river without risking losing my sanity or a quart of blood, and it gave me something to do while waiting on the fire.

While back standing around drying at the fire, I carved out a meat fork from a green stick, and then cooked supper, and ate the steaks and drank a beer I brought with me for the occasion. 60F degrees beer, but Miller isn't too bad of stuff. The cheaper beer is, the colder it has to be to stand it. Good stuff can be room temp, even.

After the meat was done, I realized I also still had most of an onion in my pack, so I spitted it on a stick and roasted it over the remains of the fire. Yummy. Sometimes I carry a plate of some sort, and kind of wished I had not, to sit the meat on while the onion cooked. Hmm...a stiff bit of bark laying around, covered with a layer of maple leaves worked well enough....

I hung around by the fire, enjoying it and the stars and all, until about 1am, when the fire was nearly entirely dead. I tentatively decided to walk back tonight. I went and got a double handful of nearby black swamp soup and dumped it in the mostly ashes in the firepit, and stirred it up with my fingers to drown all the coals.

When done, I had a cold pudding that I'd had my fingers all through, knowing there wasn't so much as a warm spot in it. I put the sand back, stuck the dirt plug back on top, even still correctly oriented north/south, plants still upright, lastly brushing the forest litter back over.

The only sign I'd been there was some flattened ferns. If I go back in a week, or a month, assuming I can even find the spot (I might not be able to) the grass on top will still be growing.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 25, 2003

"If you want baking coals..."

How to cook a ruffed grouse

Don't overcook them [a ruffed grouse] though, or they get horrid dry.

They're so lean they make venison seem greasy.

My preferred method of cooking is on a campfire for maximum flavor.

Just salt them a bit and put 'em on a stick or grill over it.

The breast meat is thick though, and I usually end up cooking it for a while, eating the outside and smaller cooked parts, then putting it back in when I hit raw meat.

Otherwise, by the time it's done inside, the outside is overdone or even burnt.

Perhaps this isn't good food safety regarding salmonella and whatnot, but I figure what I actually eat is cooked. So far so good, I guess.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, January 29, 2003

It depends on what sort of fire one intends to build, partly. If you want baking coals, it pretty much requires some bigger chunks of nominally decent stuff, for example.

Also, it is precisely the desire to leave minimal impact that will make me 'vanish' a single downed tree rather than sucking up every stick for the nearest 100 feet Depending on the type of land, this is sometimes a lot less noticeable, believe it or not.

For instance, some areas have no brush on the ground to speak of, yet are so full of fallen pines that traversing the area is like scrambling through perpetual monkey bars.

A large part of the time, I'm actually more partial to little hot fires you could almost seemingly hold in two hands, and will set near or almost over them constantly poking and feeding a stick or two. These are usually rather temporary. Overnight at most.

These need small bits of fuel. Often if I'm sure I'm going to stop soon, I'll start snatching up random branches as I go. Or, I've also turned and entire small-medium tree into logs, split the logs into splinters, and kept that type of small fire going for several days out of one 20 foot pine trunk.

Of course, I had plenty of time to mill around and gather up all the precious chips, so by the time I left, only the stump was left, and not much of that. ...nor did the stump look out of place, since the tree had snapped off a half a foot above the ground quite naturally.

Oh all right. *GRIN* I also admit I find an axe fun. It seems to be roughly 15 percent how hard you swing it and 85 percent the finesse with which you wield it. When I can really get my mind into the right order conducive to this, it's immensely satisfying to see big chunks of log go flying with every strike, not to mention missing out on the fun blisters.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, April 23, 2003

 

"Why I've never had pets"

"My biggest source of mental aggravation with dogs"

Actually, my biggest source of mental aggravation with dogs is not the threat of them as such.

The problem is the owner. Whether walking a very public (maybe even paved) road and minding my own business, or being on a trail and meeting someone's dog that they have with them, or whatever.

The problem is that I feel like telling them. "yeah, he's friendly, whatever...I really don't care. Just be aware that if it clamps onto my leg or something I'm going to do my damned best to kill it.

That's all." I don't actually say this, because people will probably take it the wrong way, I assume. I don't mean it in an obnoxious way. I'm telling you if you value the dog, make sure you are making the right decision here.

So what I mean is, my biggest fear is the owner getting all bent out of shape for me taking a sensible action after their dog was out of line.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, June 3, 2003

This is pretty much why I've never had pets [hard to get away].

I did take care of a hamster for my sister for a while, when she ended up in an apartment for school that wouldn't allow pets, but you can give those food and water and leave home for a couple days no problem.

They don't seem to be very social animals anyway.

At least, any I've ever had merely seem to tolerate attention. Maybe.

On their better days. This wasn't too bad in this case, because it was nocturnal like me, and at times, I'd let it run around on my desk while I used the computer.

Unfortunately, it died while in my custody, but it was a few years old, so that wasn't unusual.

Still, being that I was supposed to be taking care of it, of course I felt slightly guilty. :-)

Still, even at that, there were times when even that critter sorta tied me down a bit.

A dog would have been good, like a husky or malamute or something else that doesn't mind a lot of distance and being out in the winter, but nowhere I have ever lived seemed like a proper place to keep anything that big and active when I'm not out hiking.

Hell, *I* feel imprisoned in a yard, or even a town or city, so it must be hell for a dog.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, July 31, 2003

 

 


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Afterlife

"The Plight
of the Shadowstrider"

"Off with his head!" they cried in the streets as little children would cringe huddled in the corners as they watched the Shadowstrider moving about.

He was merciless, they said, or perhaps simply a mad man. ...no one knew where he had came or how he spent his days

..he had been rumoured to be seen walking along many long-forgotten paths and he walked with a staff to hit people in the head... If he felt as they were deserving of such.

The times he did appear in town were quite a sight. If one was to observe him surely they would never be bored; constantly he would have a dispute with a neighbor

....Bake him a pie and he would say why not make me a cake instead?

But little did the town know they had a great man amongst them ..one who would look at a square and call it a circle to see what others said, and question them intensely to see if they even knew why they insisted to call it a square

....when asked this they would say "That was the way I was taught" an he would delve into their minds and help them understand the difference between free thought and conditioning.

....too bad they did not realize this till they sent his head rolling down the street...

but to keep his memory alive this is why I tell you the Plight of the Shadowstrider
-Morrigan of Nichols (Source: found among Chris Hallaxs' personal effects)

If I had my way--and I can't because it's illegal, I think--but if I could, I'd make up a will specifying that if I died, please toss me in the back of a pickup truck, drive out in the swamp, and throw me over the side and drive off.

Or...if you REALLY want to get fancy, dig a plain old hole and toss me in.

The nearby trees can have a nice snack. :-)

Part of this is just liking the bush, but since like *#&!-all matters once you assume ambient temperature, it's really more that I never could figure out the point to putting people in fancy boxes, pickling them so they won't rot, and then taking up a small chunk of ground for the next few centuries or whatever.

I mean, even if you are religious (disclosure: I'm not) anything that makes a human being what they are is gone when they're dead, and all that's left is, literally, compost.

I actually think making such a big fuss over dead meat outright profanes respect for the human spirit by ignoring what's important.

Intertwined with that is that, I would LIKE to think I have spent my life so far, and would continue to as best I can, trying like hell to stamp out stupidity, both in myself and elsewhere, and I'd be rather irate to be a ghost and watch people put a lot of time, money, and waste a good chunk of ground making a big deal over something that's not much more important than a $2.99 bag of triple-12 fertilizer from Kmart's garden section.
—Chris Hallaxs, GreatLakesHikes YahooGroups.Com Message Board, January 8, 2003

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


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