Cabelas
1-800-237-4444
http://www.cabelas.com
Campmor
1-800-226-7667
http://www.campmor.com
GoLite
1-888-546-5483
http://www.golite.com/
L.L. Bean
1-800-259-2310
http://www.llbean.com/outdoors
LaCrosse
1-800-323-2668
http://www.lacrosse-outdoors.com
Mountain Equipment Co-op (MEC)
1-800-663-2667
http://www.mec.ca
Note: all prices are in Canadian dollars
Mountain Gear
1-800-829-2009
http://www.mgear.com
Northern Outfitters
1-800-944-9276
http://www.northernoutfitters.com
Outdoor Research
1-888-467-4327
http://www.orgear.com
Patagonia
1-800-638-6464
http://www.patagonia.com
Piragis Northwoods Company
1-800-223-6565
http://www.piragis.com
Recreational Equipment, Inc.,
(REI)
1-800-426-4840
http://www.rei.com
Rock-n-Rescue
1-800-346-7673
http://www.rocknrescue.com
Sherpa Snowshoes
1-800-621-2277
http://www.sherpasnowshoes.com/
Sorel
1-800-547-8066
http://www.sorelonline.com/
Steger Mukluks
1-800-685-5857
http://www.mukluks.com/
Travelite
1-307-332-5992
Contact: Connie Hankins
Custom-made expedition gear supplier for
NOLS
Wintergreen
1-800-584-9425
http://www.wintergreendesigns.com
Additional
backpacking equipment vendors
IN-POCKET SURVIVAL KITS ARE MANDATORY
ON MY TRIPS! The items listed below represent your LAST LINE
OF SELF-DEFENSE in an emergency situation and, as such, you
should never, ever, under any circumstances, become separated
from them--don't carry them in a removable fanny pack, backpack,
or an outer garment which may be removed during the day.
You should travel with them, swim
with them, eat with them, search for firewood with them, relieve
yourself with them, hang your food bag with them, and sleep
with them. You won't understand the importance of this habit
until you find yourself without them one day.
Group tripping tends to breed a false
sense of security--don't fall into this deadly trap. People
have gotten separated from their gear and the group in the
past and it's only a matter of time before it happens again.
Carry these items religiously and practice using them so you're
prepared.
Notice: If
you don't agree with this trip requirement--and many trekkers
do not--then you should not participate in this trip.
An easy way to keep these items
together is to string them on a lanyard and then loop the
lanyard around your neck or through a belt loop, buttonhole,
or safety pin to prevent accidental loss. Another excellent
way to effortlessly carry these items is to disperse them
on individual lanyards among the pockets in a pair of hiking
shorts that you wear as an undergarment. Just make sure to
tether each and every item to a belt loop, button hole, or
large safety pin to prevent loss.
Source: Campmor no. 23130
Tip: Keep them in their box as
these are safety-type matches and can't be lit without the
striker. To prevent wear and tear, store the matchbox in
a plastic bag in an empty dental floss container; to prevent
accidental loss, thread a loop of cordage through holes
in opposing sides of the upper edge of the container and
then secure lid with duct tape. Carry
an extra box in your rucksack.
Note:
either add additional matches, staggering the heads, or
add packing material so the matches cannot move about in
the box. If you fail to do this, you may find nothing but
several match sticks and some fine powder (ground up match
heads) in the box when you need them most. Also, these matches
are more water-repellent than waterproof: If you get them
wet and fail to dry them out, the match heads will turn
to mush. If the box and striker stay wet, they too may become
useless. This is one more reason to carry the magnesium
fire starter or "metal match" listed below. Keep
this in mind when fording the next river.
Source: Campmor no. 23132
Tip: Cut to size and carry same as matches
listed above. Carry extra ones in your rucksack.
Source: Campmor no. 25995 (Victorinox
Adventurer)
Tip: This knife should be a sturdy, high-quality,
lock-blade pocket knife or fixed-blade knife. Of all of
its uses, the most critical one is getting at the dry heartwood
of wet wood/sticks when you have difficulty getting a fire
going during, or immediately after, foul weather. This is
a skill you should hone until it becomes second nature.
Attach to a lanyard.
Source: Campmor no. 84731 (Silva Sportsman's
4-in-1 tool)
Tip: Pea-less whistles are the best.
Avoid metal, ball-type whistles as they tend to jam with
sand or snow and in extreme cold, the metal can stick to
your lips. Attach to a lanyard.
Source: Campmor no. 81200 (Silva Polaris
177 $10)
Tip: Stick with a high-quality compass
from one of the big three manufacturers--Silva, Suunto,
or Brunton. Attach to a lanyard.
Source: Campmor no. 23131
Tip: These come with a built-in flint
striker and are standard issue in military survival kits,
and for good reason. Keep in mind that they can't be used
without a knife or other sharp object (carry a 3-inch-long
piece of a hacksaw blade, threading it on lanyard through
a hole at one end, in case you loose your knife) and that
they require a high level of proficiency to be effective
as a fire starting tool. Learn how to use this tool ahead
of time. Attach to a lanyard. Ask leader for help on the
trip if you can't master this essential skill.
Source: See info on the Land
Navigation Page
Tip: Waterproof and carry in heavy-duty
zip-lock bag. Bury a spare copy deep in your rucksack.
Source: Campmor no. 83003 (1 oz, 2-by-3
inch "Ten Mile")
Source: Campmor no. 81328
Tip: These four pocket-sized cards are packed with survival
information.
[ ] Ice-rescue picks--these
are essential for rescuing yourself when you break through
rotten river or lake ice.
Source: Piragis Northwoods Company no.
E00266 (comes with handy case) or Rock-N-Rescue no. POL-1
(no case).
[ ] 50-foot, floating, throw rope
in throw bag
Source: Campmor no. 96466
Note: This rope
is not suitable for high-tension rescue situations, such
as a Z-drag rig.
[ ] One carabiner
Source: Campmor no. 30276
Source: Campmor no. 22144 (pocket saw)
or 81032 (Sven; drill a hole in
the wing nut and attach a lanyard to prevent loss); Piragis
no. 5206 (Sawvivor) or 5203 (Schmidt Packsaw).
Source: Campmor no. 23130
Tip: Keep them in their box as
these are safety-type matches and can't be lit without the
striker. To prevent wear and tear, store the matchbox in
a plastic bag in an empty dental floss container; to prevent
accidental loss, thread a loop of cordage through holes
in opposing sides of the upper edge of the container and
then secure lid with duct tape. Carry
an extra box in your rucksack.
Note:
either add additional matches, staggering the heads, or
add packing material so the matches cannot move about in
the box. If you fail to do this, you may find nothing but
several match sticks and some fine powder (ground up match
heads) in the box when you need them most. Also, these matches
are more water-repellent than waterproof: If you get them
wet and fail to dry them out, the match heads will turn
to mush. If the box and striker stay wet, they too may become
useless. This is one more reason to carry the magnesium
fire starter or "metal match" listed below. Keep
this in mind when fording the next river.
Source: Campmor no. 23132
Tip: Cut to size and carry same as matches
listed above. Carry extra ones in your rucksack.
Note: Laid on its side, just below damp
twigs and tinder, the candle listed in the lighting module
below makes an excellent firestarter too.
[ ] Fire pan--you should carry
a small steel cookie sheet (a 9" by 13" one from
Wal-Mart weighs 7 ounces) to build a small warming/snow-melting/cooking
fire on so you don't burn the ground, or don't have to dig
down through five feet of snow. To use one, simply lay fire
pan on two or three limbs or logs, either on the ground to
protect it, or on top of five feet of snow to keep the pan
from sinking into the snow. A fire pan will also allow you
to pick your fire up and move it around if the wind changes
and smoke enters your tarp shelter.
This fire pan can also double as a stable
base for your stove too. If your stove fails, it's very easy
to switch to a twiggy fire to melt snow and cook your meal.
Source: WalMart
[ ] Spark screen (optional)--A
piece of 1/8-inch wire mesh makes an excellent spark screen
to protect your expensive clothing from flying sparks. Make
it twice the size of the cookie sheet and then fold it in
half, or loosely wire the two halves together so they hinge.
Very handy.
Source: Hardware or building supply store
[ ] Hatchet (optional)--handy
as a splitting wedge for getting at dry heartwood.
Source: Cabelas no. 51-2472 (Back Pax
ax)
Source: local drug store
Source: Hardware store
Tip: Important for equipment repair;
rigging extra tent deadmen or high-wind pullouts; splints;
emergency snowshoes; lashing a raft together; repairing
broken snowshoes and sledge traces, etc.
Source: Wal-Mart (Small 1.5-inch-wide
by 4.72-yard-long roll of 3M Scotch no. 127 "Cloth
or Duct" tape).
Tip: Essential for repairs, blister prevention,
splints, etc.
Source: Jo-Ann Fabric & Crafts, or
other sewing shop
Tip: Include
extra fabric, buttons, leather thimble, heavy-duty carpet-type
thread, heavy-duty needles, light-duty thread, light-duty
needles, 4 large safety pins, and cotter pin (for easily
rethreading drawcords).
Source: Campmor no. 92872, or check
with your local running or cross-country ski shop.
Tip: Essential for staying warm, preventing
hypothermia, while hiking in windy, wet weather. Very thin
ones can be worn dry.
Source: Campmor no. 90041, etc.
Tip: Make sure both are sized so
they can be worn together in very cold, damp weather, with
a balaclava against the skin.
[ ] Neoprene facemask
Source: Campmor no. 47128 (Seirus Neofleece
Comfort Masque)
Note: very essential when taking on head
winds in deep cold.
Note:
it is essential that the above garments be oversized enough
so that you can wear them all at the same time when it is
severely cold.
Source: Campmor no. 00393
Tip: Essential to prevent snow blindness.
Source: Campmor no. 83311 (Smith Sun
Valley Goggles)
Note: Essential in high winds and blowing
snow if you don't have an extended, tunnel-type hood on
your windshell.
Source: Hardware (safety glasses) or
sporting goods store (shooting glasses).
Note: Essential to protect eyes from
sharp sticks when bushwhacking.
Source: Northern Outfitters no. 192 (EXP
Wind Anorak Full-zip)
Note: it
is essential that this wind parka is oversized enough so
it can be worn over every layer you carry in the coldest
conditions. I'm 6-2, 185 and I use
a size 2XL.
[ ] Heavily-insulated over-parka--should
be large enough that is can be slipped on over
your trail gear when we stop for five minutes and it should
fit over all of your other insulating layers at night for
comfort in camp. Must have hood.
Source: Travelite (North Ridge Expedition
Parka, No. 03-B-02)
Note: it
is essential that this insulated over-parka is oversized
enough so it can be worn LOOSELY over every layer you carry
in the coldest conditions.
Source: Patagonia (Lightweight Zip-T
Capilene)
Tip: Zip-turtlenecks offer the
widest comfort range. Several lightweight layers offer the
most options and dry much faster than a single heavier layer.
Source: REI no. 648177 (Mountain Hardwear
Chugach Jacket) or MEC no. 4016-644/645 (MEC Northern Light
2 jacket, 3 oz. PrimaLoft)
Tip: While thick fleece or wool
garments work just as well, synthetic micro-fiber weighs
a bit less.
Source: Mountain Gear no. 260009 (Mountain
Hardwear Chugach Vest) or MEC no. 4016-648/649 (MEC Northern
Light 2 vest, 1.8 oz. PrimaLoft)
Tip: While thick
fleece or wool garments work just as well, synthetic micro-fiber
weighs a bit less.
Note: it is
essential that the above garments be oversized enough so that
you can wear them all at the same time when it is severely
cold.
Source: Outdoor Research "Professional
Modular Mitts"
Source: Outdoor Research "Professional
Modular Mitts Single Liners" and "Professional
Modular Mitts Double Liners."
Tip: You should have a total of two single
thickness liners and one double liner. If the shells and
liners are big enough, you should be able to nest a single
layer in the double layer for extreme cold around camp.
I use the XXL.
Note: it is
essential that the mitten shells and the liners are oversized
enough so that you can wear them all at the same time when
it is severely cold.
Source: Northern Outfitters no. 191 (EXP
wind pants)
Note: it
is essential that these wind pants are oversized enough
so they can be worn over every layer you carry in the coldest
conditions. I'm 6-2, 185 and I use
a size 2XL.
Source: Patagonia (Lightweight Capilene)
Tip: do not wear
cotton underpants under these as this defeats the purpose
the wicking layers and you'll be wondering why you are not
staying warm in all of your expensive, high-tech layers.
Source: REI no. 648178 (Mountain
Hardwear Chugach Pants) or MEC no. 4010-397/398 (MEC Aurora
Pants, 3 oz. Primaloft)
Tip: While fleece or wool work
well, they are much heavier that synthetic-insulated pants.
Full-length, fully-separating leg
zippers are essential for quickly adding, ventilating,
or removing this item as conditions change.
Source: Travelite (North Ridge Expedition
Pants, No. 03-B-03)
Note: it
is essential that these insulated over-pants are oversized
enough so they can be worn LOOSELY over every layer you
carry in the coldest conditions.
Source option no. 1: Steger Mukluks
no. ARWM 620 (Arctic Weathermates; order these double-wide
models big enough to fit one felt liner inside of another
[yes two nested liners for extreme cold], plus an insole
or two; consult Steger staff for proper size; order two
sizes to check fit??)
Source option no. 2: LaCrosse
no. 298200 (-100 Snowdonia 17"). As warm as any pack
boot, but lighter due to nylon upper.
Note: Both of the above boots may lack
the necessary support for backpacking without snowshoes.
Backpacking may require a stiff, leather-topped pack boot
with a felt liner.
[ ] Extra pair of insulated liners
for mukluks or boots listed above
[ ] High-density, 3/8" foam
insoles
Note: unlike almost all other foam on
the market, these will not compress as easily under the
weight of your body and will therefore insulate your foot
from the cold ground, the greatest source of heat loss.
Another option is extremely dense industrial carpeting,
but it is heavier and very difficult to dry when wet.
Source no. 1: Contact a Neos Performance
Overshoes dealer and order one or two pairs of the 10mm
insoles (perfect fit innersoles) used in some of their mukluks
and sold as an accessory. Order the XXL and then trim them
to size. To locate a dealer, visit their Web site at http://www.overshoe.com
and go to their dealer page at http://www.overshoe.com/dealer.html
Source no. 2: Campmor no. 78952 (Neos
Removable insoles)
[ ] Vapor barrier socks
Note: use these to keep perspiration
from soaking your socks and mukluk/boot liners by wearing
them over a polypro sock liner and under an insulating sock
or two. Very large plastic bread bags used by bakers work
very well. Get them very long so the top can be tucked well
down into the boot to prevent the bag from working its way
down the foot. Carry a spare pair in case one gets ripped.
Source: Grocery store bakery
Source: Campmor no. 19654 (Smartwool
Expedition Trekking Socks)
Source: Campmor no. 19902 (Fox River
X-Static liner sock)
Source: Drug store
Tip: Should include Vaseline, moleskin,
and duct tape.
Source: MEC no. 4005-853 (MEC Hollofil
Booties II)
Source: Travelite (North Ridge Expedition
Booties, No. 03-B-06)
Tip: Synthetic insulated (not down)
booties are essential for sleeping warm in colder weather
and keeping feet warm around camp.
Source: REI no. 10445 (Gore-Tex Stowaway
Jacket)
Tip: A long Gore-Tex parka is the
best choice; a poncho is generally a poor choice. A parka
should have a large hood and be oversized enough so every
insulating layer you're carrying can be warn underneath
in foul weather.
Source: REI no. 10446 (Gore-Tex Stowaway
Rain Pants)
Tip: Should be oversized so all
insulating garments can be layered underneath in foul weather.
Source: Campmor no. 00493 (Outdoor Research
Seattle Sombrero Gore-Tex)
[ ] Snowshoes--semi-rectangular
aluminum-frame snowshoes should be about 9" by 30"
for women and 10" by 36" for men for deep powder
in subzero conditions.
Source: Sherpa Snowshoe Company "Pemba
Mountain Legend" model in 9" by 30" or 10"
by 36" with Sherpa Classic (Flexible) Binding (not
Lotus Comfort Binding). This is THE original mountaineering
snowshoe with THE original all-conditions binding. The rectangular
lacing around the entire frame allows it to climb well in
powdery snow conditions.
[ ] Ski pole--one, or two,
poles with large baskets are handy for off-trail travel in
deep snow and for probe-checking ice conditions on lakes and
rivers.
Tip: Get a good solid aluminum backcountry
pole that adjusts by way of a push button, not a cam that
is useless in subzero temps, and that has 5 or 6 inch diameter
deep powder basket.
Source: A very good backcountry pole
is the Leki Quest Backcountry Pole by Leki http://www.leki.com.
(One vendor for this pole is The Ski Rack http://www.skirack.com
1-800-882-4530; make sure to order the Deep Powder Basket
accessory as it does not come equipped with it.)
Note: Five (5) club sledges are available
on a first-come, first-serve basis. A rental charge of $5.00
per trip is charged. A waistbelt harness is not provided,
so each participant must bring a heavyduty waistbelt. These
can often be removed from a sturdy backpack. If the hood
of the pack can be removed and installed on the removed
waistbelt as a buttpack, this is a good idea also.
Tips
for Building a Single-Pole Skiing Sled by Tim Kelley
(Note: this sled may be better for open-country travel as
opposed to bushwhacking.)
[ ] Deicing kit--If you are
not pulling a club sledge, you must carry a plastic ski scraper
and a very coarse synthetic (not metal) pot scrubber pad.
The bottom of the sled will ice up after stops and create
tremendous friction. Deicing your sledge is a regular and
somewhat time-consuming activity.
Land navigation team members should see
the land navigation page for a list
of recommended equipment.
Source: Campmor no. 80880 (Buy
the best--Nalgene)
Tip: Store them upside down since water
tends to freeze from the top down. This will keep the drinking
end open longer. In extreme temperatures, start with boiling
water in the water bottles.
[ ] Insulated water-bottle parkas--these
are essential to keep your water bottles, especially the cap
threads, from quickly freezing.
Source: Campmor no. 80752 (Outdoor Research
water bottle parka).
Source: REI no. 682-293 (3 LB MSR Zoid
1) or 680-588 (3 LB Sierra Designs Light Year CD)
Tip: A solo tent should weigh 3 pounds
or under to keep total pack weight down.
Source: Local building supply store or
hardware store
Tip: Unconventional, but effective interior
ground cloth always keeps you dry--Simply cut a piece of
clear plastic or PVC tarp to the size of the floor, adding
six inches all around for a bathtub effect. Conventional,
but ineffective exterior ground cloth only keeps you dry
while tent floor coating is very knew--Simply cut a piece
of clear plastic or PVC tarp to the size of the floor and
then trim off 3 or 4 inches on all sides to reduce chance
of water getting between ground cloth and tent floor.
Source: Campmor no. 20255 (4.75' by 7.5'
ultralite poncho/shelter made from silicone-impregnated
nylon)
Tip: The above poncho can be rigged as
a shelter during the day or to eat under at night when it
is raining/snowing. Requires 50 feet of 1/8 inch or thinner
cordage for rigging.
Source: Campmor no. 22220 (10' by 10'
urethane-coated nylon) or 20069 (8' by 10' silicone-impregnated
nylon)
Note: both of these tarps require sealing
of the center seam, the silicone tarp requires a special
sealant. All tie loops should have a 12-inch-long piece
of 1/8-inch cordage attached in a loop fashion with a fisherman's
knot. The following 1/8-inch rope lengths should also be
carried with a large, fist-size bowline loop in one end
for easy pitching in all situations: 6 five-footers, 3 ten-footers,
and 3 fifteen-footers.
TIP: Laying a
tarp over several logs placed across a narrow trench in
the snow and then covering it with six inches of snow makes
a nice warm winter shelter--without a lot of sweaty work.
Source: Campmor no. 41332 (Sleeping Bag
Cover)
Note: Most commercial bivy sacks are
zero-clearance units which do not lend themselves to comfortable
bivouacs. While far from optimal, the Campmor unit is a
good start. It is has a very generous girth which is hard
to find. However, it needs a bit of retro work. The seam
across the foot should be let out and an oval wedge of fabric
sewn in to increase the toe box area. A hood should be added:
A flat piece of fabric (long enough to overlap original
edge of zippered top by one foot) should be attached to
the head portion of the bivy. It should be sewn along both
sides and the top, with an oval piece of fabric added along
the top end, just like the foot modification. Entry is then
by way of the 1 foot overlap of the hood and the original
lower top portion.
Note: Avoid clear plastic as it
is far too slippery on snow. Either make a nylon one or
cut down a cheap PVC tarp. A poncho works well too.
[ ] 2
closed-cell foam pads--carry a full-length, 1/2- or 3/8-inch-thick
closed-cell foam pad and a 3/4-length 3/8-inch-thick closed-cell
foam pad. Don't bring old, broken-in pads as they may compress
too much and let your hips and shoulders get cold. Open cell
pads should are for comfort, not warmth.
Source: Local camping store.
Note: one pad alone is not enough for
extreme cold or sleeping on lake or river ice.
[ ] Sleeping bag--Should
have synthetic insulation (not down) with at least a minus-40-degree
rating.
Source: Campmor no. 49131 (North Face
Dark Star -40)
TIP: If you cold-weather
bag is old and the loft has fallen off, bring a second bag
and lay it open, comforter-like, over your main bag. Pre-sewing
some short shoelace like pigtails on each bag will keep
the bags mated all night.
The bag should
have enough shoulder girth (width) so you are not cramped
when wearing all of your warm layers, including a bulky
parka. In addition, the bag should be long enough so you
can stow your boots and liners in a plastic bag in the foot
of the bag to keep them from freezing (sweat accumulation).
[ ] Sleeping bag expander--if
you need extra room in your North Face bag for thick winter
clothing, purchase an Expander Panel from North
Face. It is a 9-inch-wide wedge of lightly insulated material
which simply zips onto your North Face bag (newer bags only)
just as another bag would.
Source: Campmor no. 47617 (The North
Face Expander Panel)
[ ] Snow shovel--a shovel
with a wide, flat 13" by 18" plastic blade is best
since it will allow you to move large amounts of loose powder
snow or cut and lift blocks of snow from compacted areas,
which are very common in Michigan.
Source: Local hardware or discount stores
Coleman stove source: Campmor
no. 80052 (MSR XGK Shaker Stove)
Alcohol stove source: REI no.
657906 (Trangia Mini 28-T)
Source: Wal-Mart, drugstores, gas
stations, and supermarkets
Tip: Use a lighter for lighting
stoves and candles as discarded matches end up littering
campsites. An adjustable-flame lighter suspended from a
loop of shockcord (use duct tape to attach) around your
neck to keep it warm and functional is essential in deep
cold.
Source: Campmor no. 58855 (MSR
windscreen)
Tip: The MSR windscreen is an excellent,
long-lasting, ultra-lightweight, inexpensive way to get
the most heat and efficiency out of your stove.
Source: Campmor no. 80088, 80057 (MSR
Fuel Bottles) or 80356 (Nalgene polyethylene fuel bottles)
Coleman fuel: Plan on 13
liquid ounces per day, per person. Keep in mind it takes
more fuel in the winter because it is much colder and snow
must be melted into water before boiling.
Alcohol fuel: Plan on 15 ounces per day,
per person
Source: Campmor no. 23064
Source: Campmor no. 82008
Tip: Small pots are useless for
efficiently melting snow. A wire bail is essential for open
fire cooking as well as attaching a rope to reach otherwise
inaccessible water sources (e.g.: overhanging snowdrifts
along creeks). A snug lid conserves heat, saves fuel, and
limits smoky-water taste. To keep your rucksack light, avoid
heavy stainless steel pots--use aluminum or titanium.
[ ] Spoon
Source: Campmor no. 80756 or 80758
Tip: Save weight by using lexan or titanium--avoid
stainless steel. Forks and knifes are unnecessary weight.
Source: Campmor no. 80921 (4.8
ounce 12-ounce-capacity insulated plastic mug)
Tip: Save weight by using plastic
or lexan mugs.
Source: Grocery store
Tip: Gallon-size plastic storage
bag.
Source: Campmor no. 29650 (LED-type
Infinity Task Light by CMG Equipment)
Tip: This an excellent, ultra-light
flashlight which runs for 40 hours or more a single AA-size
lithium battery.
Note: Do not use a light with alkaline
batteries unless it has a remote battery pack that you can
suspend around your neck to keep the batteries warm. Lithium
batteries are unaffected by cold weather, unlike alkaline
batteries which may last only 20 minutes in deep cold.
Source: Campmor no. 78140 (Jakstrap)
Tip: Very handy.
Tip: necessary for
non-LED flashlights only.
Source: Wal-Mart, Target, or Radio
Shack
Tip: In the above LED-type light,
one AA-size lithium battery should last 40 hours or longer.
Always carry at least one spare battery in case of malfunction.
If you are using AA-size alkaline
batteries in a remote battery pack, allow 4 hours of burn
time per set of batteries. Carry one change of batteries
per night in the bush.
Source: Campmor no. 22141 or 80648
Tip: A lightweight, wind-resistant, field-expedient
candle lantern can be fashioned by partially filling a one-gallon-size
zip-lock bag with sand, mud, or snow and inserting the candle
stub. A candle-lantern-type candle burns for about 9 hours.
You may want to carry enough candles so you have at least
four hours of light each night. In the winter, it gets dark
early and stays dark longer. One candle throws a lot of
light, especially in a white snow shelter. It also gives
off a bit of heat too. Plumbers candles make excellent,
long-burning winter candles too--check at your local hardware
or plumbing shop. Laid on their side, candles make excellent,
long-burning "matches" for getting damp firewood
going.
Source: Camping section at Wal-Mart,
Target, etc.
Tip: Carry biodegradable RV-type
toilet paper in a plastic bag. When there is 100% snow cover
on the ground, burn your used toilet paper with the lighter
suspended around your neck so it does not make an unsightly
mess in the spring, or blow into a nearby waterway.
Always cover bodily wastes with snow.
Source: Campmor item 80965
Tip: Save weight by trimming towel
to one-foot-square size.
Source: Wal-Mart
Tip: Look for 2-section travel toothbrush
that stores brush end in hollow handle
Source: For a list of vendors as
well as formulas on how to make your own tooth powder, read
the tooth
powder page on this Web site.
Tip: Carry 1
tablespoon per week of travel. Unlike conventional toothpaste,
tooth powder does not freeze and it requires no water for
rinsing or spitting. Works well with just saliva and can
be swallowed.
Source: Wal-Mart
Tip: Stim-u-dent-brand toothpicks work
very well.
[ ] Personal medications
Tip: String on lanyard and give
to someone else on trip.
Tip: In Canada, you must have a
"Canadian Nonresident Insurance Card" for
your vehicle. Call your insurance agent to get one.
Tip: Make sure you have a spare
key. This is much cheaper than having to go get gas, or
have your engine repaired because of vandals.
Note: This is essential in deep cold.
Get the biggest, high-amp battery that you can stuff in
your battery storage compartment. Visit an auto parts store
that has their batteries out on display and, after comparing
and contrasting the amp ratings vs. physical dimensions
of the batteries in their catalogs, get the highest-amp
one you can safely mount in your vehicle. This may take
some time and cash, but it is cheaper than the alternative:
having your vehicle towed a long distance, hotel fees, etc.
To make your engine easier to turn over
in cold weather, have the oil changed to a lighter weight,
like 5 W 30.
Make sure your anti-freeze can handle
40 below temps.
Consider having a block heater installed
in your engine. Even if your engine can not be jump started,
you can have it towed to a place with electricity where
the block heater will rewarm the engine within a few hours.
The alternative may be an expensive tow and then a two-day
thaw job in a heated garage, hotel fees, etc.
If you install an engine block heater,
carry a very long extension cord or two.
Avoid short, thin cables.
Tip: Check all four tires as well
as spare tire.
Tip: Michigan and/or Canadian road
map.
Tip: Don't forget to check the
pressure in this tire.
Tip: Check
engine, transmission, and front and rear windshield washers
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